Guide to Yosemite / A handbook of the trails and roads of Yosemite valley and the adjacent region
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Title: Guide to Yosemite

Author: Ansel F. Hall

Release date: July 28, 2012 [eBook #40360]
Most recently updated: October 23, 2024

Language: English

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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GUIDE TO YOSEMITE ***

GUIDE TO YOSEMITE

A HANDBOOK OF THE TRAILS AND ROADS OF YOSEMITE VALLEY AND THE ADJACENT REGION

by

ANSEL F. HALL

U.S. NATIONAL PARK SERVICE
IN CHARGE OF INFORMATION
YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK

Aeroplane View of Yosemite Valley and its Adjacent Region.

Introduction

This Guide and Trail Companion was brought about by thousands of requests for practical information concerning the many short excursions from Yosemite. Besides briefly describing Yosemite Valley, its scenic features, and the immediately adjacent portion of the Sierra, detailed information has been introduced concerning each trail and road in the region. These are described just as they are actually followed, and attention is called to each point of interest just as it is discovered during the trip itself. As far as possible, complete data has been introduced on condition of trails, time required to make the trips, fishing, camp sites, forage conditions, etc., in short all kinds of information which would be demanded of a hired guide.

The original draft of this Handbook was prepared in collaboration with Forest S. Townsley, Chief Ranger of Yosemite National Park. Later, each of the Park Rangers suggested valuable additions, and several members of the Sierra Club contributed bits of valuable information. The author has freely consulted old books and pamphlets in the Bancroft Historical Library at the University of California and has included several points of historical interest.

Acknowledgment is also due to Mr. Herbert Maier for the drawings and maps here reproduced and to the United States Geological Survey for permission to reproduce a portion of the "Administrative Map of Yosemite National Park."

Suggestions as to additions or corrections which would make this booklet more useful to the public would be greatly appreciated and should be addressed to the author, care of United States National Park Service, Yosemite, California.

ANSEL F. HALL

In charge of Information
Yosemite National Park

Yosemite, California
May 1, 1920

COPYRIGHT 1920
by
ANSEL F. HALL

CONTENTS

The Yosemite Region | 1
Yosemite Valley | 2
Origin | 2
Early History | 2
General Features of the Valley | 3
The Waterfalls | 5
Yosemite Village | 8
Yosemite Roads | 13
I | El Portal to Yosemite via El Capitan Road | 14
I-A | Pohono Bridge to Yosemite via Bridalveil Road | 18
II-A | Tour of the Floor of the Valley | 20
III | Yosemite to Glacier Point via Chinquapin Road | 26
IV | Yosemite to Tenaya Lake, Tuolumne Meadows, and Mono Lake via Big Oak Flat and Tioga Roads | 30
V | Yosemite to Hetch Hetchy via Big Oak Flat Road and Hetch Hetchy Railroad | 38
VI | Yosemite to El Portal via El Capitan Road | 39
VI-A | Yosemite Village to Pohono Bridge via Bridalveil Road | 43
Yosemite Trails | 46
1 | Yosemite to Glacier Point via Vernal and Nevada Falls and return via the Short Trail | 47
2 | Yosemite to Glacier Point via the Short Trail and return via Vernal and Nevada Falls | 52
3 | Yosemite to North Dome via Yosemite Falls and return via Mirror Lake | 56
4 | Yosemite to North Dome via Mirror Lake and return via Yosemite Falls | 60
5 | Yosemite to Tenaya Lake via Clouds Rest and Forsyth Pass and return via Mirror Lake | 63
6 | Yosemite to Tenaya Lake via Mirror Lake and return via Forsyth Pass and Clouds Rest | 67
7 | Yosemite to Lake Merced | 70
8 | Yosemite to Tuolumne Meadows via Sunrise Trail | 72
9 | Yosemite to Eagle Peak, El Capitan and Gentry | 75
10 | Yosemite to Ten Lakes via Yosemite Creek | 76
11 | Yosemite to Hetch Hetchy via Yosemite Creek, Harden Lake, and Smith Meadow | 79
12 | Yosemite to Sierra Point | 81
13 | Little Yosemite | 81
14 | Half Dome | 83
15 | Yosemite to Glacier Point via the Ledge Trail | 85
16 | Glacier Point to Sentinel Dome | 86
17 | Glacier Point to Fort Monroe via Pohono Trail | 87
18 | Fort Monroe to Glacier Point via Pohono Trail | 88
19 | Glacier Point to Wawona via Alder Creek Trail | 90
20 | Glacier Point to Ostrander Lake | 92
21 | Glacier Point to Chilnualna Falls or Johnson Lake via the Buck Camp Trail | 93
22 | Glacier Point to Johnson Lake via Buena Vista Trail | 94
23 | Yosemite or Glacier Point to Moraine Meadows via Merced Pass Trail | 96
24 | Wawona Road to El Portal via the Sunset Trail | 97
25 | Wawona Road to El Portal via the Hennessy Trail | 98

THE YOSEMITE REGION

"By far the grandest of the western ranges is the Sierra Nevada, a long and massive uplift lying between the arid deserts of the Great Basin and the Californian exuberance of grain-fields and orchards; its eastern slope, a defiant wall of rock plunging abruptly down to the plain; the western, a long, dry sweep, well watered and overgrown with cool, stately forests; its crest a line of sharp, snowy peaks springing into the sky and catching the alpenglow long after the sun has set for all the rest of America." [1]

About midway between the north and south ends of this "Snowy Range" and extending from the ragged summits of its eastern edge to the semi-arid foothills at the west, lies Yosemite National Park, 1125 square miles of incomparable scenic beauty.

Yosemite Valley, contrary to most peoples' preconceived idea, lies fully 25 miles west of the Sierra crest. It is countersunk 4000 feet into the granite of the gently inclined plateau, which above its rim averages from 7000 to 8000 feet in elevation. The characteristics of this region immediately adjacent to Yosemite Valley are different from those of the High Sierra to the past. Very little of it is above the timber-line, as the dominating summits—Mount Hoffman (10,921) at the north, Clouds Rest (9924) at the east, Mount Starr King (9179) at the southeast, and Horse Ridge (9600) at the south—average less than 10,000 feet in altitude. The magnificent forests with which the slopes are clothed are interspersed with perfectly formed granite domes, with meadows and wild-flower gardens, with polished granite pavements, and with innumerable manifestations of Nature which give the trails of the region an ever-changing charm.

[1] From "Mountaineering in the Sierra Nevada," by Charles King.

YOSEMITE VALLEY

Bisecting this district from east to west is the great trough of Yosemite Valley, its bottom gouged down more than half way to sea level. The same type of geological architecture is exemplified by the Hetch Hetchy a few miles to the north and by the canyons of the San Joaquin, Kings and Kern to the south. In none of these however, are magnitude, beauty and accessibility so ideally combined as in Yosemite.

ORIGIN

As to the origin of these valleys, and of Yosemite in particular, there is still some discussion among scientists. Whitney's old theory of a great cataclysm and the sinking of a small block of the earth's crust has been entirely displaced, and geologists are now seeking to determine if glaciers have been solely responsible for the present landscape or whether ice and water worked hand in hand. A good summary of the various theories of geological history, as well as a popular discussion of all the geological phenomena of the region, is contained in the "Sketch of Yosemite National Park and an Account of the Origin of Yosemite and Hetch Hetchy Valleys," by Dr. F. E. Matthes of the U.S. Geological Survey. This government publication may be obtained in Yosemite at the office of the Superintendent for ten cents.

EARLY HISTORY

Yosemite Valley remained undiscovered by white men until in 1850 marauding Indian bands from the mountains raided several foothill trading posts. In retaliation the "Mariposa Battalion" was organized to subdue these mountain tribes and force them into a large reservation, the San Joaquin Valley. The last to be conquered and the most warlike were the Yosemites living in fancied security in their stronghold, the deep grassy valley of "Awahnee." It was in pursuit of this tribe that the members of the Mariposa Battalion first entered Yosemite on March 21, 1851. The story of the one-sided campaigns which extended over two summers is well told by Dr. W. L. Bunnell, the surgeon of the party, in his "Discovery of the Yosemite and the Indian War of 1851" (4th Edition, 1911, G. W. Gerlicher, Los Angeles).

An excellent summary of the early history of Yosemite Valley has recently been published as a Park Service bulletin and may be obtained free at the government information bureau in Yosemite.

GENERAL FEATURES OF THE VALLEY

All points of scenic interest are indicated in the road and trail trips, but the following brief discussion of the major features of the valley may serve to orient the new-comer. In this connection the aeroplane-view frontispiece will be found exceedingly useful.

First and most impressive are the great rock masses. The square-cut 3200 foot cliff of El Capitan at the Gates of the Valley is regarded by many as the most awe-inspiring of all great rocks; yet others affirm that Half Dome, a few miles eastward, is just as mighty and far more lovable.

The castellated Cathedral Rocks rising half to two-thirds as high as El Capitan on the opposite side of the valley are dwarfed in comparison, but are given an individual personality by their exceptional outline. Just eastward, the marvelously delicate pinnacles of the Cathedral Spires, each towering over 500 feet from its base, stand out from the great south wall. Less interesting but very mighty are the Three Brothers, rising 3800 feet as a great buttress of the north wall. Opposite them the Sentinel Rock, a huge obelisk-like watch tower, guards the south ramparts.

At the upper end of the valley the dome formation is dominant. To the north are the rounded summits of North Dome, Basket Dome and Mount Watkins. The granite walls below them have fractured in great concentric arcs, forming the marvelously symmetrical Royal Arches, at the east end of which is the striking vertical promontory of Washington Column. At the edge of the perpendicular cliffs of the south wall is Glacier Point, the finest lookout point in the valley, and a short distance back from the rim are the symmetrical curves of Sentinel Dome.

Yosemite Valley is formed by the confluence of two great canyons—Tenaya Canyon from the northeast and the upper Merced Canyon from the southeast. Between them originates a great backbone ridge which extends many miles to the northeast and exhibits many examples of dome structure and glacial sculpture. Lowest of its promontories is the roughly hewn Grizzly Peak, which is flanked on the east by the well rounded summits and smoothly planed sides of Mount Broderick and Liberty Cap. Then, standing in massive isolation 5000 feet above the valley and 2000 feet above its immediate base is Half Dome. Further to the northeast along the ridge are the two Quarter Domes, the Pinnacles and Clouds Rest, the highest summit in the immediate vicinity of Yosemite.

Tenaya Canyon, a great glaciated gorge countersunk thousands of feet into the granite, is practically impassable. The main canyon of the Merced, however, as it comes from the east, widens to form the Little Yosemite Valley. With its level meadows and sheer granite walls flanked by perfectly formed domes, it is marvelously like Yosemite but smaller. Further eastward is the High Sierra.

THE WATERFALLS

There are five great waterfalls in Yosemite and a number of lesser ones which would be world-famous were it not for the comparison. During the flood waters of spring they are at the height of their beauty, amplifying the living landscape by their many columns and booming power. Later, as the snow fountains of the high places are gradually depleted, they take on a more filmy gracefulness but are lacking in exuberant impressiveness.

Three of the five falls, the Bridalveil, Yosemite and Illilouette, leap from hanging valleys into the main canyon. All of the minor falls are of the same type. Vernal and Nevada Falls, on the other hand, are formed by the entire Merced River pouring over great steps in the mighty box canyon at the east end of the valley.

First seen and most graceful is the Bridalveil, dropping daintily 620 feet at the right portal of the great valley gate. Well may we wonder how this charming fall with its exquisite rainbows came to be called Pohono or "spirit of the evil wind" by the Indians.

Most famous of all, the highest fall in Yosemite and in all the world, is the Yosemite. Its first sheer plunge of 1430 feet would set it apart as the greatest of its kind, but by a series of six quick jumps it descends another 800 feet to the brink of the final precipice, over which it leaps gracefully 320 feet to the valley floor. Seen from below, the 2600-foot drop often appears as one fall though in reality the Upper Fall is fully one third of a mile back of the lower. In winter a great ice cone, sometimes 500 feet high, forms beneath this Upper Fall, and its collapse causes riotous ice-floods in early spring. "Choolook," which in Yosemite dialect meant simply "the fall," has a most changing personality. In late summer and autumn he loses much of his springtime power and obeys every whim of the ever-changing winds. But the most delightful of all his moods may be seen during the time of the full moon when the foot of the Lower Fall is veiled by the delicate iridescence of lunar rainbows.

From the western edge of Panorama Cliff the lace-like Illilouette Falls disappears into its box canyon east of Glacier Point. The filmy character of its 370-foot foam-curtain is almost never appreciated because of the lack of a proper view-point. The old Indian name Too-tool-a-we-ack sought to reproduce the sound of gurgling and falling water.

Vernal and Nevada pour over the rims of two successive glacial amphitheatres in the main canyon of the Merced. Both carry a great volume of water and are much less variable than the mural falls.

Vernal, dropping 317 feet in a wide and unbroken sheet, has often been pronounced the symmetrically perfect of all falls. Its foot is always bathed in blowing mists which give rise to most exquisite circular rainbows. Referring to the spray, the Yosemites called the fall Yan-o-pah or "little water cloud."

Nevada, widely tossing out its spray-rockets, gives a vast impression of power which is probably nowhere equaled except in the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne. In its descent of 594 feet it strikes a projecting ledge, which caused the Indians to name it Yo-wy-we or "twisting rock."

There is yet another great fall in the Yosemite region, but concerning it little is known. It is so inaccessible in the mighty Tenaya Canyon that it is even nameless, and no one has ever reached its base. Seen from afar pouring over a rounded precipice in the canyon bottom it appears to be between 600 and 1000 feet in height.

The minor falls are very beautiful in early spring but all are ephemeral, blooming delightfully with the melting of snows, but dying in summer. Largest and best known are the Cascade Falls, which drop 594 feet over the north wall of the lower Merced Canyon and form one of the chief objects of interest in the ride from El Portal to Yosemite. Ribbon Fall, highest of all, descends delicately in one 1612-foot leap into a recess just west of El Capitan. From the rugged south wall Widow's Tears pours 1170 feet to the rock talus. Just west of Sentinel Rock is a series of picturesque cascades which, in spring, are dignified by the name of Sentinel Falls. Royal Arch Fall is one of the most beautiful but most ephemeral of the small falls. During sudden rainstorms or usually rapid thaws, supplementary falls pour into the valley over many of its ramparts. John Muir describes the storm of 1871 in which fifty-six such cataracts appeared in the upper end of Yosemite Valley.

YOSEMITE VILLAGE

On the banks of the Merced where once stood Haw-kaw-koo´-e-tah, the home of the Yo-ham´-i-te tribe, is Yosemite Village. The accompanying map, drawn May 1, 1920, indicates all places of public interest, but on account of contemplated building activities several changes may be expected within the next few seasons. Yosemite has recently been granted a second-class postoffice with branches at Camp Curry and Yosemite Lodge and with free delivery service to camps on the valley floor.

At the U.S. National Park Service Administrative Building are the offices of the Park Superintendent, Chief Ranger and other executive officers. In front of the building is a free information bureau with a park ranger in charge. Government maps and bulletins may here be obtained free or at a very nominal cost. Adjacent is a motorists' information bureau maintained by the California State Automobile Association. At the left entrance is the telegraph and telephone office maintained by the government. The Yosemite Museum, which contains many excellent exhibits of the flora and fauna of the region is temporarily housed in this building.

Hotel accommodations in Yosemite Valley are limited to one hotel and two large hotel-camps. The Sentinel Hotel in Yosemite Village, though offering good service and a splendid cuisine, has been outgrown and will soon be superseded by a very much larger and more modern building.

Camp Curry, a large hotel-camp about one mile east of the village on the road to Happy Isles, is delightfully situated beneath Glacier Point, an ideal spot from which to view the famous "Fire Fall," a beautiful cataract of fire which is nightly pushed from the cliff 3000 feet above. The camp has a wide reputation for its democratic atmosphere.

Map of Yosemite Village.

Yosemite Lodge, formerly called Yosemite Camp, is the other large hotel-camp, and is located one-half mile north of Yosemite Village near the azalia-bordered Yosemite Creek. It offers most attractive views of Yosemite Falls and is well maintained by the Yosemite National Park Company.

At the rim of the valley is Glacier Point Hotel with every modern convenience, and an unsurpassable view of Yosemite and the High Sierra.

Lodges are maintained at the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees and at Lake Tenaya and Merced Lake in the High Sierra.

The general store is adequately stocked to supply the tourist and camper with all his needs—supplies, clothing, sporting goods, drugs, etc. The Housekeeping Camps Department supplies all kinds of camping or outing equipment at very reasonable rates. Opposite the store is the bakery and creamery, and the meat market.

During the season of 1920 the general garage will be moved from its location near Yosemite Lodge to a point just southeast of the new Rangers' Club House. A large free storage garage is maintained by Camp Curry. Gasoline and oils may be obtained at several service stations on the floor of the valley and at a few outposts on the park roads.

The Government Pavilion, on the banks of the Merced near the center of the village, is a social center for dances, lectures, moving pictures, etc. There is also an excellent entertainment and dance hall at Camp Curry.

Religious services are held in Yosemite Chapel which faces the postoffice.

In the village are four studios, two of them doing photographic work exclusively, and the other two specializing in oils and water-colors. Studios are also maintained at Yosemite Lodge and Camp Curry.

There are two large swimming tanks, one at Yosemite Lodge and one at Camp Curry. Both are open to the general public.

Between the village and Camp Curry is the picturesque Le Conte Memorial Lodge, which is sustained by the Sierra Club. The Yosemite Library is housed here and hundreds of photographs, flower specimens, maps, etc., make the building a favorite of the thousands of visitors. Each year the Extension Division of the University of California arranges a series of "Le Conte Memorial Lectures," which are here delivered. They are exceptionally interesting and all well attended, for in them the most eminent scientific authorities interpret the natural history, folklore, geology and other subjects exemplified by the Yosemite region.

North of the Merced and about a third of a mile from the center of the village is the schoolhouse and a group of other government buildings. One of these is the menagerie and contains several wild animals captured in the region. The chief exhibits are a pair of California mountain lions, and a number of bear. In this vicinity is also the quaint old Yosemite Cemetery, where rest many of the pioneers of the early days.

Near Yosemite Lodge is the Yosemite Hospital with a competent physician and surgeon in charge. During part of the season a dentist is also in attendance.

About twenty camp grounds have been prepared for the free use of the public by the Park Service. Water is piped to these localities and a sanitation system provided for. Applications for camp sites should be made at the National Park Service office in Yosemite Village. Those without outfits, who desire to establish camps, may arrange at the Housekeeping Camps Department of the Yosemite National Park Company (at Camp 17, a quarter mile east of Sentinel Bridge and north of the river) to rent all necessary equipment. This will be delivered and set up ready for occupancy. It is advisable to arrange in advance for the outfit desired.

An auto-bus service (fare 10c and 25c) to all points on the valley floor provides a quick and convenient means of transportation. All main roads are paralleled by trails for the use of pedestrians.

Information as to the hiring of horses and automobiles, arrangements for camping tours, and about many other items of general interest, is contained in the "Circular of General Information regarding Yosemite National Park," which may be obtained free at any of the government information bureaus.

YOSEMITE ROADS

The roads of Yosemite have just passed their initial stage of development. Most of the 138 miles of road in the park were built for old-time stage coaches and for horse travel. With the advent of the motor has come a second period—that of reconstruction and improvement. The highway from El Portal to Yosemite and the roads on the floor of the valley illustrate the type of present-day construction; but it must be remembered with indulgence that such roads are just beginning to be, and that most of the park routes, although not at all bad, are yet mountain roads.

Let us assume that the motorist is now in Yosemite. Besides the routes to the low country, the following scenic trips may be taken within the park:

- 1. A Tour of the Valley.

- 2. El Portal and return.

- 3. Glacier Point.

- 4. The Mariposa Big Trees.

- 5. Tuolumne Big Trees.

- 6. Hetch Hetchy.

- 7. Lake Tenaya and the High Sierra route to Mono Lake and Tahoe.

Each of these (except number four) is described in the following road trips.

ROAD TRIP I

EL PORTAL TO YOSEMITE via EL CAPITAN ROAD

(15 miles—1¼ hours by stage)

Most charming because of the climax of ever-increasing scenic beauty and grandeur, is the fifteen-mile ride from El Portal up the gorge of the Merced to Yosemite. It is rather to be regretted that modern auto-busses hurry us over the new highway in less than an hour and a half, giving us scarce time to appreciate the majesty and beauty of the ever-changing panorama.

Leaving El Portal, the road parallels the north bank of the Merced, passing beneath gnarled oaks and silver-gray digger pines. In the high water of early spring, Indian Creek, across the canyon, descends over the picturesque Chinquapin Falls. Entering the gateway of Yosemite National Park, we follow up the riotous Merced River, noting here and there a hardy yellow pine or an incense cedar venturing down to the canyon bottom. About two miles inside the park is Avalanche Falls across the river. The trail bridge below is the crossing of the Sunset Trail, which ascends past the foot of the fall and climbs 2500 feet to the Wawona Road. A short distance up the canyon the road passes beneath Arch Rock, a natural tunnel formed by huge blocks of granite. Just beyond, Grouse Creek descends the south canyon wall by a series of cascades.

We have now entered the true mountain forest, and ride beneath yellow pines, incense cedars, Douglas firs and now and then a true fir. Elephant Rock towers above and to the right. Just below it is Battleship Harbor, a placid stretch of the Merced in which fancied granite dreadnaughts ride anchor. At the left the old Coulterville Road steeply descends the canyon wall and joins the main highway. This first road to Yosemite was opened in 1874 and was for years the main stage route from Merced. For the benefit of those who require entertainment the chauffeur often points out the image of a white Persian cat on the rock wall to the left. A short distance beyond and on the same side of the road are Wildcat Falls.

Crossing two small bridges we obtain the best view of Elephant Rock down the canyon. At the left are the Cascade Falls, during the flood waters of early spring one of Yosemite's most beautiful cataracts. The top of the cascade is 594 feet above the road. About a half mile further is Pulpit Rock, on the south side of the river. It is best viewed by driving beyond and then looking back down the canyon. Below the road and at the right is the government power plant, where the water from the Merced drives two thousand-kilowatt electric generators. The intake and dam are passed further up the canyon.

Three thousand feet above, the ephemeral Widow's Tears Fall drops 1170 feet from the rugged ramparts of the south wall. Another mile takes us past the site of the old Indian village Ah-wah-ma to Pohono Bridge. From this point two roads ascend the valley, one on either side of the river. The more picturesque Pohono Road runs up the south side of the canyon. This is described in Road Trip I-A. The El Capitan Road, following up the north side of the valley will first be traced.

A short distance from the bridge we are treated to a most impressive view of the Gates of the Valley. At the left the sheer 3300-foot precipice of El Capitan dominates the entire landscape. Its majesty is matched by the beauty of the Bridalveil Fall and Cathedral Rocks opposite. Between them is Nature's threshold, the brilliantly verdant Bridalveil Meadows, dotted with dark green pines and oaks. Beyond, Half Dome is partly hidden by the projecting cliff of Glacier Point at the right. The summit of the lofty bare granite ridge in the distance is Clouds Rest, the highest point on the Yosemite walls. If the winter snows be still melting above the rim we will see at the left the Ribbon Fall dropping delicately over its 1612-foot precipice into a recess just west of El Capitan. Its Indian name was Lung-oo-too-koo-ya, or "pigeon fall." Near its base the Big Oak Flat Road branches to the left and ascends thru the piles of shattered granite talus of the north wall. At this point was the Indian village, Hep-hep´-oo-ma. The road to the right leads past the El Capitan Checking Station and across El Capitan Bridge to the Bridalveil Road (Road Trip I-A) south of the river.

Continuing up the north road we pass thru El Capitan Meadows, where were the Indian villages of Aw´-o-koi-e, He-le´-jah, Ha-eng´-ah and Yu-a´-chah. As we skirt the base of the almost vertical wall, the stage driver will generally point out more or less interesting images. Chief among these is Tote-ack-ah-noo-la, the "Rock Chief" of the Indians, whose title was translated into Spanish to make the present name. In a shallow niche 1189 feet above the road stands a hardy Jeffrey pine 82.4 feet in height and two feet in diameter. Across the river are the massive Cathedral Rocks and the delicately pinnacled Cathedral Spires. Further up the canyon the massively sculptured pyramids, the Three Brothers, rise abruptly to the north. Opposite them the road to the Bear Pits turns into the woods. Turning northeast, our road passes Rocky Point at their base. This is We-äck, the place where Chief Tenaya's three sons were captured in 1851.

One mile beyond is Yosemite Lodge, one of the two large hotel-camps of the valley. The main buildings occupy the site of Koom-i´-ne, the largest and most important of the old Indian villages. Just northward the Yosemite Fall makes its triple plunge of 2600 feet, the highest waterfall in the world. The upper fall drops 1430 feet sheer. Crossing the azalia-bordered Yosemite Creek, the road skirts a wide meadow and turns sharply across the valley. To the left is a magnificent panorama of the Royal Arches, North Dome, Washington Column and the precipice of Glacier Point. At the right the great obelisk of The Sentinel rises from the south wall.

Crossing Sentinel Bridge to Yosemite Village we halt at the Sentinel Hotel which, with the cottages opposite, occupies the site of the old Indian village Haw-kaw-koo´-e-tah, the home of the band called Yo-ham´-i-te, for whom the valley was named. A short distance beyond is the office of the U.S. National Park Service, where all campers should stop and register.

We continue up the canyon, now paralleling the south river margin thru a beautiful pine, fir and cedar forest. Thru the trees we now and then catch a glimpse of the Quarter Domes beyond the dominating Half Dome, and finally the summit of Clouds Rest. Three-quarters of a mile from the village is the picturesque Sierra Club Lodge at the right of the road. A short distance further is Camp Curry, delightfully situated among the giant pines and cedars at the base of the towering cliff of Glacier Point. At this spot was the large Indian village of Too-yu´-yu´-yu, and a short distance to the northeast in the meadow was Too-lah´-kah´-mah. This famous hostelry, Camp Curry, is the final destination of all stages. The road continues up the canyon to Happy Isles.

ROAD TRIP I-A

POHONO BRIDGE TO YOSEMITE via BRIDALVEIL ROAD

(5 miles—20 minutes by stage)

The Bridalveil Road, ascending the south side of the valley, is scenically superior to the north, or El Capitan Road. Crossing Pohono Bridge to the south side of the Merced the road immediately enters a dense and beautiful forest. A short distance takes us to Fern Spring, justly famous for the purity of its ice cold water. One-half mile beyond we suddenly emerge at Bridalveil Meadows, obtaining a most charming view of the Gates of the Valley. At the right, Bridalveil Fall leaps 630 feet from its hanging valley, the one side of which is formed by the massively sculptured Cathedral Rocks, and the other by a solid granite ridge terminating at Leaning Tower, another eminence of the turreted south wall. On the opposite side of the canyon rises the sheer face of El Capitan. In the recess at its west the evanescent streamer of Ribbon Fall descends in a lace-like film.

At the edge of the meadow about 100 feet north of the road a dense grove of oaks and pines shelters the graves of two pioneers, Rose and Shurban, who were massacred here by the Indians in May, 1852. Near the river was once the Indian village of Sap-pah´-sam-mah. The road now passes near Bridalveil Fall, charming glimpses of which are now and then revealed. A subsidiary road turns to the right and leads to the foot of the falls. This short side trip should be taken by all visitors. Just below a very large rock at the east margin of the stream is the site of the ancient village of Lem-me´-hitch´-ke. In view of this fact, our stories of the Indians' great fear of Pohono, "the spirit of the evil wind," may be somewhat overdrawn.

Just below the imposing buttress of the lowermost of the Cathedral Rocks is El Capitan Bridge, and near it Lo-to-ya (Flower) Spring. North of the river is El Capitan Checking Station and the terminus of the Big Oak Flat Road (Road Trip IV). East of Cathedral Rocks we are treated to a sudden view of the two marvelously slender Cathedral Spires, each rising 500 feet from its base and appearing to tower even above the Yosemite rim. Directly opposite across El Capitan Meadows is a most comprehensive view of the mighty wall of Tote-ack-ah-noo-la, the "Rock Chief" of the Indians, whose title was merely translated into Spanish to make the present name. Chauffeurs often point out the likeness of the chief and other more or less imaginary mural images. In a shallow niche 1189 feet above the road stands a hardy Jeffrey pine 82.4 feet high and two feet in diameter.

In driving beneath the oaks, alders, pines and firs we enjoy ever-changing vistas across the placid river. Three Brothers, massively piled promontories of the north wall, are least harshly seen from this road. Directly ahead rises the watchtower of Sentinel Rock. At its west flank the transitory Sentinel Fall descends in a series of cascades during the spring thaws. Below Sentinel Rock we pass the site of Galen Clark's cabin, of old Camp Awahnee, and of the more ancient Indian village of Loi'-ah. About one and a quarter miles further is Yosemite Village. All campers should register at the National Park Service headquarters.

ROAD TRIP II

A TOUR OF THE FLOOR OF THE VALLEY

(9 miles—2 hours ride—1/2 to 1 day walk)

Every Yosemite visitor should spend at least one day within the valley itself before beginning the more strenuous trail trips. There is so much to be seen from the valley floor that weeks might be spent there were it not for "the call of the High Country" beyond the walls. The following itinerary includes a visit to most places of interest in the upper (east) end of the valley: Sentinel Bridge, Indian Village, Royal Arches, Washington Column, Indian Cave, Mirror Lake, Half Dome, Mineral Springs, Tenaya Bridge, Happy Isles, Camp Curry and Le Conte Memorial Lodge, in the order mentioned.

Road Trips I and VI describe the region west of the village. The following excursion may be made by motor in two or three hours. Hikers will find it a moderately long half-day tramp or a leisurely one-day ramble. An early start should be made in order to see the sunrise at Mirror Lake. It is well to ascertain the hour beforehand, for this varies with the season of the year.

From Yosemite Village we cross Sentinel Bridge and follow the poplar-bordered road across the meadow. Straight ahead is Yosemite Fall and the Lost Arrow, and at our right a most comprehensive view of North Dome, the Royal Arches, Washington Column, Half Dome and Glacier Point. At the Grizzly Hotel site the El Capitan Road (Road Trip VI) branches westward, while our route turns up the canyon. The distant buildings to the left of the road are the Government barns, shops and warehouses. In this group is the menagerie which will well repay a subsequent visit. Nearer is the picturesque old cemetery where many pioneers of the region lie at rest. A little farther eastward on the largest open level area in Yosemite is the site of the important old village of Ah-wah´-ne, from which the valley took its Indian name.

Continuing along the Royal Arch Road we soon pass the new Rangers' Club House. Just beyond, a cross road to the right leads to the garage. To the northward, high overhead, are the silhouettes of the Castle Cliffs, and at their east the deep cleft of Indian Canyon which, to the Yosemite tribe, was "Le Hammo" because of the arrowwood which grew there. Along the precipitous cliffs of the east wall ran their main trail into Yosemite from the north. From the valley floor at the base of a cliff just west of the Royal Arches they first climbed a large oak and then made their way along narrow ledges toward the northwest. It was at this oak that old Chief Tenaya was captured in 1851 by Lieutenant Chandler and the scout Sandino.

At the mouth of Indian Canyon is Yo´-watch-ke, the only Indian village in the valley which is still occupied. During the July celebrations it is picturesquely alive but at other times the few dirty o´-chums are almost repulsive. This area on the alluvial fan of Indian Creek is the warmest spot in the valley and botanists will here find many plants typical of the lower altitudes.

A short distance further we pass Camp 17 at the right of the road. About a quarter of a mile beyond and on the opposite side is Camp 20. At a road junction is a small settlement called Kenneyville, which occupies the site of the former Indian Camp of Wis´-kah-lah. Here the Le Conte Road turns south, leading to Camps 15 and 7, and across Stoneman Bridge to Camp Curry on the Happy Isles Road. Doubling back to the westward is Sequoia Lane, a road leading to Camps 6 and 7, and to Yosemite Village, one mile distant.

We continue eastward, passing Camp 8, which is above the road and just at the west end of the Royal Arches. During the spring thaw the beautiful but ephemeral Royal Arch Fall descends over a cliff at the left. Its Indian name, Scho-ko-ya, meant "basket fall." In the next half mile our road is flanked by the overhanging cornices of the colossal arches. They must be viewed from afar if we would realize how aptly they were called by the Yosemites "Scho-ko-ni," which means "the movable shade to a cradle basket." At the left of the road and directly beneath the arches is Camp 9. As we continue along the road, breaks in the forest reveal intermittent views of Washington Column towering above to the left, and of the great face of Half Dome dominating all the east.

A short subsidiary road to the left now leads to Indian Cave immediately under Washington Column. The Yosemites named this retreat Hol´-low´, but sometimes called it Lah-koo´-hah, which means "Come out!" It is a low, broad, deep recess under a huge rock and is said to have been occupied as a winter shelter; also when the Yosemites were attacked and almost exterminated by the Mono Lake Piutes. The overhanging rock is black with the smoke of ages, and far back in the cave large quantities of acorn shells have been found.

Returning the short distance to the main road, we again turn eastward, soon passing a group of excellent mineral springs at the right. The highway now bears gradually to the north into the mouth of Tenaya Canyon and in one-half mile ends in a "loop" at the west margin of Mirror Lake. The relative darkness in this deep canyon and the absence of wind during the early morning hours insures a perfect reflection for almost every morning of the vacation season. Most perfect are the reflections of Mount Watkins (the Wei-yow or "Juniper Mountain" of the Yosemites) guarding the entrance to the forbidden gorge of Tenaya. Unfortunately the delta of Tenaya Creek has greatly encroached upon the mirror and has reduced it to but a remnant of the beautiful lake which the Indians called Ah-wei´-yo, or "quiet water." From the end of the road the Tenaya Lake and North Dome Trail (Trail Trips 4 and 6) continue around the western shore of the lake and up the canyon.

After the appearance of the sun over the shoulder of Half Dome, we retrace the last half mile of our route, turning aside for a short visit to the mineral springs. A little distance further the main road forks and we take the left-hand branch which crosses Tenaya Bridge. A detour to the westward now takes us around and over a portion of the lateral moraine left at the junction of the ancient Tenaya and Merced glaciers. Near this point was Hoo-ke´-hahtch-ke´, an Indian village inhabited up to about 1897.

A road which branches to the right offers a short-cut to Camp Curry, about three-quarters of a mile distant. It passes Camps 11 and 14, and the site of the Lick House, one of the inns of early days. The main road, however, bears to the left and parallels the beautiful banks of the Merced. Less than a mile takes us to the Happy Isles Bridge. Here the main trail to Vernal and Nevada Falls, Glacier Point, Half Dome, Clouds Rest, Merced Lake, etc. (see Trail Trips), turns south and ascends the Merced Canyon. At the right of the bridge is a U.S. Weather Bureau observation station. On the west side of the stream is the old power plant and from it starts the footpath to Happy Isles. The short side trip from island to island should not be missed. Especially are these charming garden spots noted for the beauty of their flowering dogwoods, maples and alders. The round trip to Sierra Point (Trail Trip 12) may easily be accomplished from this point in one hour. A refreshment stand is maintained in the vicinity. To escape the dust of the road one may follow the picturesque Happy Isles Trail from its beginning near the power house to Camp Curry, one mile westward.

Our road now bears to the northwest and rounds the imposing buttress of Glacier Point. One-half mile takes us to a spring at the left of the road which once supplied the large Indian village of Um´-ma-taw. A short distance beyond, our route is joined by the short-cut road from Mirror Lake. Near this road is a cabin often pointed out as having belonged to John Muir. It was really built and used by James C. Lamon, a pioneer and the first permanent resident of the valley. Muir's cabin has long since disappeared and its only existing photograph is in the possession of Dr. Wm. F. Badé. The orchard at the right occupies the site of Too´-lah´-kah´-mah, another vanished community of the Yosemite tribe.

Extending for a considerable distance along the road are the tents and bungalows of Camp Curry. If we have time to stop, we may be refreshed by a swim in the huge open-air swimming pool, by cooling drinks at the soda fountain or by a rest beneath the great pines and cedars.

From the camp center a road to the north leads across the Stoneman Bridge to Kenneyville. At the right of the road is the site of the old Stoneman Hotel, which was built and maintained in the early days by the State of California, but which burned down in 1896. Close to the bridge, on the banks of the Merced, was once the large Indian village of Too-yu´-yu´-yu.

West of the Camp Curry bungalows we pass Camp 16, between the road and the river. Near this point the Ledge Trail turns to the south and mounts the talus slopes above Camp Curry. A short distance beyond is the new Le Conte Memorial Lodge picturesquely set among the pines and incense cedars where once was the Indian village of Ho-low, and where the old schoolhouse stood until 1911. The lodge is an ideal place to spend the remainder of the afternoon amongst photographs, flowers, books and maps, and in a cool and absolutely restful atmosphere. To the right of the road, where the river makes a big detour to the north, is Camp 19. One should note the remarkably perfect reflections in the river below the rock wall parapet during the remaining half-mile walk to Yosemite Village.

ROAD TRIP III

YOSEMITE TO GLACIER POINT via CHINQUAPIN ROAD

(28 miles—4 to 5 hours by auto)

A trip to Glacier Point should be part of everyone's Yosemite itinerary. Many motorists prefer to make the excursion by road instead of by trail. The round trip from Yosemite can be made by machine in one day, but it is better to reserve accommodations in advance at the Glacier Point Hotel and remain there over night to view the sunrise over the High Sierra. Another excellent plan is to send one's machine around by road while one walks or rides to Glacier Point via the Vernal and Nevada Falls Trail (Trail Trip 1), returning to the valley via Chinquapin Road. The description of the first 14.5 miles of this trip, which follows the Wawona Road as far as Chinquapin, will be of interest to those leaving Yosemite by that route.

From Yosemite Village we follow the Bridalveil Road (Road Trip VI-A) down the valley four and a half miles to the Bridalveil Checking Station, where the Wawona Road turns to the left. Here all motorists must register. For safety the park regulations permit the ascent on even hours only, and at a speed of not more than twelve miles per hour.

We now climb steadily beneath a dense forest of pines, fir, incense cedar, oak and laurel, and at one and a half miles halt at Artist Point (Alt. 4701, 750 feet above the valley floor). The view of the Gates of the Valley to the east is claimed to be one of the most perfect of all Yosemite landscapes.

Gradually climbing another 690 feet we finally halt at Inspiration Point (Alt. 5391). The view of Yosemite is similar to that from Artist Point, but with the depths and distances more impressively accentuated. Across the canyon is Fireplace Bluff. A view-finder beside the road indicates each point of interest. All machines should be registered at the Government Checking Station. Telephone communication and water are here available.

About half a mile beyond Inspiration Point is Fort Monroe (Alt. 5540), an old-time stage relay station. This is a fair campsite for auto parties. A good spring will be found near the Pohono Trail junction. The visit to the wild-flower gardens and many fine lookout points of the Pohono Trail (Trail Trip 18) is an especially fine one-day walking trip from this point.

Our road now leads thru most magnificent pine forests, which open now and then to give us short glimpses of the canyon of the Merced, thousands of feet below. About two miles from Fort Monroe the Hennessy Trail (Trail Trip 25) branches to the right and descends to El Portal, ten miles distant. Grouse Creek Crossing, a half mile further, is a good auto camp. Fishing is fair downstream.

Another two miles takes us to Avalanche Creek. There are here no camping places and the stream contains no trout. Caution: The worst turn on the road is about 200 yards beyond the crossing. One mile beyond Avalanche Creek the Sunset Trail (Trail Trip 24) leaves the road at the right, descending to the Mid-winter Ranger Station near Arch Rock on the El Portal Road.

One mile further is Chinquapin, an old stage relay station at the junction of the Glacier Point and Wawona Roads. There is here a ranger station and during the summer gas and oil can be obtained. In the vicinity are many good camp sites. An excellent spring will be found 200 yards north of the ranger cabin. Fishing is fair in Indian Creek about a quarter of a mile southward; best fishing is downstream. Many deer are generally to be seen in the region. Chinquapin is especially noted for its wonderful sunsets. Before leaving, all machines should take water.

The main road continues southward to Wawona and the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees and thence to Merced, Madera and Fresno. Our route turns eastward and climbs abruptly 1300 feet in the next three miles to the head of the canyon of Indian Creek. This long, hard grade takes us to the 7500-foot level, where we are at last on the gently sloping plateau above the valley walls. The following eleven miles is a delightful succession of mountain meadows and forests of red fir, lodgepole pine and other sub-alpine species. Numbers of deer can almost always be seen from the road, especially early in the morning.

Peregoy Meadow, about five miles from Chinquapin, was famous in the early days for its wayside inn on the "Yosemite Trail" from Clarke's (now Wawona). The old buildings have long since disappeared, but the trail, now called the Alder Creek Trail (Trail Trip 19), is still used. From Peregoy Meadow to Glacier Point are many fine camp sites. About one mile eastward is Bridalveil Creek Crossing. Fishing is good upstream, and fair about one mile downstream, but generally poor near the road.

At a trail junction about one and a half miles further, the Ostrander Lake and Buck Camp Trail (Trail Trips 20 and 21) turns southward (right). Here one may park his machine and walk to Ostrander Lake via Trail Trip 20 and return, a fifteen mile one-day round trip. The lake offers some of the best fishing in this section of the park.

Swinging gradually to the northeast the road passes to the east of Ostrander Rocks. A trail to the right leads to Mono Meadow and the basin of the Illilouette. Three miles further at Pothole Meadows the Peregoy Meadow Trail (Trail Trip 19) leaves the road at the left. A short distance beyond and at the same side of the road is the Pohono Trail turn-off (Trail Trip 17). A half mile further, just as the road starts its final descent to Glacier Point, is a trail to the left leading to Sentinel Dome. The summit is but a few minutes distant and from it is revealed a vast panorama of the High Sierra.

A gradual descent in the final one and a half miles takes us past several lookout points to the road termination at Glacier Point Hotel. Excellent accommodations are here obtainable. The overhanging rock and Glacier Point are 200 yards northward. (For trips from Glacier Point see Trail Trips 1, 2, and 16 to 23.)

ROAD TRIP IV

YOSEMITE TO TENAYA LAKE, TUOLUMNE MEADOWS AND MONO LAKE via BIG OAK FLAT AND TIOGA ROADS

(Lake Tenaya 57.7 miles. Tuolumne Meadows 65.2 miles. Mono Lake 88.2 miles)

Most charmingly scenic of all trans-Sierran routes is the historic old Tioga Road. Built by Chinese labor in 1881 to transport ore from the Tioga Mine (near Mono Lake) across the Sierra to the San Joaquin Valley, it soon fell into decay when the venture was abandoned. In 1915 the road was purchased by a group of public-spirited citizens and presented to the government. Since being well repaired it makes Yosemite accessible from the east and opens up the wonderfully fine camping country of the High Sierra to the automobile tourist. Hundreds of motorists take this exceptionally scenic short-cut to Lake Tahoe. In normal years the road opens July 15th and closes September 30th. Detailed information may be obtained from the "Circular of General Information regarding Yosemite National Park," or at the Motorists' Information Bureau in Yosemite Village. The first twenty-three miles of the following trip describes the Big Oak Flat Road as far as Carl Inn, and should be of use to auto parties leaving the park by that route.

From Yosemite we may follow either the Bridalveil or the El Capitan Road westward. At El Capitan Bridge, four miles west of the village, the Big Oak Flat road turns abruptly northward. All machines should be registered at the nearby checking station. For safety, the park regulations permit the ascent on even hours only and at a speed of not more than twelve miles per hour.

Gradually mounting the talus slope of the rough canyon side, we emerge 1200 feet above the valley floor at New Inspiration Point from which is our last comprehensive view of the Gates of the Valley. The outlook, although scenically not as perfect as that from the Wawona Road, is nevertheless quite attractive, for the depths below when viewed from this point seem almost always to be permeated by a transparent blue haze.

Near the top of the steady four-mile climb is Gentry Checking Station, where motorists should again register. This is a possible camp for motorists but rather a poor location. One-half mile further is the "Gentry Townsite," laid out about 1914, and beyond, the site of the old Gentry Sawmill. There are here a few good places for auto camps. Water will be found at a spring above the road.

Cascade Creek is crossed a short distance northward. The crossing offers no good camp sites. Fishing is fair. The short steep grade beyond the bridge is known locally as "Fords' Rest." We now ascend Lilly Creek to the crossing about half a mile above. Here the blazes of the old Mono Trail may be seen at the left leading down to a point on the rim of the canyon about three miles distant, where was once the terminus of the Coulterville Road. In the early days this was one of the chief routes used by the Indians and cattlemen.

Two miles beyond Cascade Creek is Tamarack Flat (Alt. 6390), named from the "tamarack" or lodgepole pine here so abundant. This is a splendid camping place, but somewhat cold. Fishing is fair and horse feed may be found upstream. A trail branching to the right leads to Aspen Valley, six miles distant. It is extremely brushy, poorly marked and almost impassable.

Three miles westward is Gin Flat, the summit of the Big Oak Flat Road. The meadow, bordered by red and white fir and Jeffrey and lodgepole pine, offers an attractive but cold campsite. There is a tradition that a barrel of gin was once buried here by one of the old-time whiskey peddlers, who was shortly afterwards killed. A more or less desultory search on the part of not a few "old-timers" failed to discover the prize, so after a few decades the matter became almost legendary. But in 1909, as a battalion of negro cavalry were marching to Yosemite for patrol duty, the tradition was in some way "picked up" in Groveland by one of the troopers. The commanding officer could hardly understand why his troops pushed on so readily the next day until, when camp was pitched at Gin Flat, they started to dig. Not a stone in the vicinity was left unturned—but the gin was never found.

At Crane Flat (Alt. 6311) two miles further west are many excellent camp sites. This camping ground is the one nearest to the Tuolumne Grove of Big Trees. Water is conveniently piped from a spring to the vicinity of the ranger cabin. It is a good plan, if camp is to be made at Crane Flat, to gather firewood en route, for it is scarce in the immediate region. Motorists should register at the log cabin of the Park Ranger, and all east-bound cars should take water. A road branching southwestward leads to Hazel Green, about five miles distant on the Coulterville Road, and to the Merced Grove of Big Trees, seven and a half miles away. It is narrow and steep, but in fair condition. About a quarter of a mile from Crane Flat the Davis (private) Road turns to the left from the Hazel Green cut-off and leads to Big Meadows (4.5 miles) and El Portal (11.5 miles).

The main road bears to the north a short distance after leaving Crane Flat and, after one mile of steep descent, enters the Tuolumne Grove of Sequoias. Most of the thirty trees in the small grove are advantageously seen from the road, but a short side trip to the tunnelled Dead Giant (above and to the right) is well worth while. This subsidiary road is steep and narrow and most people prefer to walk to the giant.

One-half mile below the grove the main road passes beneath the rustic gateway which marks the boundary between Yosemite National Park and the Stanislaus National Forest. There are two possible auto camps in the next mile, but neither are very good. Bearing westward the road follows down the canyon of North Crane Creek. Good camp sites will be found at the crossing about two miles below the park line. Hogdon Ranch, a little more than a mile further, is another good place to camp. At this abandoned cattle ranch an old road branches to the left. It is impassable because of washouts. A mile and a half further along the main road is Carl Inn, a mountain summer resort on the South Fork of the Tuolumne River. Accommodations are excellent. Gasoline and oil may here be obtained. There are many fine camp sites in the vicinity and fishing is fair. One may obtain saddle or pack animals at the hotel for trail trips in the region.

Just west from the hotel is a main road junction. The Big Oak Flat Road to Chinese Camp, Knights Ferry and Stockton continues down the South Fork, while our road crosses the New England Bridge and bears northward. One mile takes us to another junction where the Hetch Hetchy Road (Road Trip V) branches to the left. The Tioga Road turns eastward, ascends a rather steep grade thru a fine forest of pine, cedar and oak, and in 4.2 miles again enters the park at Aspen Valley Ranger Station. Motorists should stop and register. A government telephone is here available. There are excellent camping places in the vicinity and a good spring about two hundred yards northwest of the ranger cabin.

Two miles inside the park is Aspen Valley, another abandoned cattle ranch. The long meadow offers a delightful camp. The Carlin Trail, which is used chiefly by cattlemen, branches to the westward at this point and makes a rough descent to Ackerson Meadow six miles distant. Leading southeast is a trail to Tamarack Flat on the Big Oak Flat Road. Over most of its six miles it is so brushy as to be almost impassable and it is now little used. About one mile north of Aspen Valley the seldom used "Packers' Trail" begins at the left of the road and bears northward toward Hetch Hetchy. From Aspen Valley eastward good camping places are so numerous that several will be passed each hour. They will therefore not be mentioned in the following text.

Our road now ascends Long Gulch, passes over a low divide, and in 4.2 miles crosses the Middle Fork of the Tuolumne River. This is an attractive auto camp but horse feed is scarce. The stream is well stocked with rainbow and eastern brook trout. We now follow along the well-wooded banks of the Middle Fork and in about three and a half miles, where the road makes a big bend toward the southeast, we find the beginning of the trail to Harden Lake, Hetch Hetchy, and the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne.

The beautiful little Harden Lake (Alt. 7575) is only one mile distant by trail. It is a most attractive place to lunch and the round trip can easily be made in less than one hour. From points just north of the lake a most comprehensive view of the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne is revealed. Harden Lake contains no trout.

White Wolf, some two miles beyond the Harden Lake Trail Junction, is one of the many fine meadows which our road now traverses. The old Ten Lakes Trail shown on the U.S.G.S. maps as leading eastward from this point has been superseded by the new Ten Lakes Trail up Yosemite Creek. The old blazes may be followed eastward two and a half miles to Lukens Lake (Alt. 8450), a charming little mountain lakelet surrounded by a park-like forest. It has not yet been stocked with trout.

About three miles beyond White Wolf the Yosemite Creek Trail (Trail Trip 11) branches to the right (south). Yosemite is ten miles distant by this excellent trail. Passing several small meadows, one of which is Dark Hole, we descend in about two miles to Yosemite Creek Ranger Cabin. The station is connected by telephone to Yosemite. From here a good trail bears to the southwest and joins the main Yosemite Creek Trail one and a half miles below. Good camp sites are numerous in the vicinity and at the Yosemite Creek Crossing, about a quarter of a mile eastward, the new Ten Lakes Trail follows up the east bank of the creek. Our road now ascends about two and a half miles of heavy grades, finally passing over a flat divide and descending almost imperceptibly to the large meadows at Porcupine Flat, an excellent camping place. One mile further the Yosemite Falls Trail branches to the right and leads southwest five miles to Yosemite Point.

In another mile Snow Creek is crossed. Fishing is fair down stream. Snow Flat, two and a half miles further, is an especially good place to camp. It is the usual base camp for the ascent of Mount Hoffman (Alt. 10,921), three miles to the northwest.

May Lake (Alt. 9400) is about one mile north of the road by a plainly blazed but rough trail which climbs about 500 feet en route. Beautifully set in the rugged glacial amphitheatre at the east shoulder of Mount Hoffman, which towers imposingly above, it offers one of the most attractive side trips of the region. As a campsite it is unsurpassed. In the days when troops were guardians of the park this was the officers' private fishing lake—and fishing is most excellent. It was stocked with Loch Leven trout in 1908, with eastern brook in 1908 and 1917, and with rainbow in 1908 and 1913.

From Snow Flat the road rises abruptly for a short distance, then descends 800 feet in the next three miles to Lake Tenaya. Near a sharp bend in the road about one mile from the lake, a trail to the right (Trail Trip 5) leads to Yosemite via Mirror Lake.

Tenaya Lake (Alt. 8141) is one of the gems of the High Sierra. It is a large, deep, glacial lake imposingly surrounded by granite crags and domes. Its Indian name, Py-we-ack, meant "lake of the glistening rocks," referring to the glacier polished granite at its upper end. The lake and the pyramidal peak to the east were renamed Tenaya when the last remnant of Chief Tenaya's Yosemite Tribe was captured here by the Mariposa Battalion on June 5, 1851. The lake is one of the best in the park for a permanent auto camp. It was stocked with Loch Leven trout in 1911 and with rainbow, eastern brook, black spotted, and steelhead in 1917, 1918, and 1919, but fishing is only fair. From the lower end of the lake the Forsyth Pass Trail (Trail Trip 6) bears eastward across the rocky meadows, and the Yosemite Trail (Trail Trip 5) takes off toward the southwest.

Our road skirts the western lake shore. At a point where Murphy Creek enters from the north are the ruins of a log cabin which was built by John L. Murphy, one of the early pioneer guides of the region. The McGee Lake Trail to Waterwheel Falls here turns off from the road. Rounding the polished base of Polly Dome (Alt. 9786) we finally halt at Tenaya Lake Lodge near the white beach at the lake's upper extremity. Accommodations are excellent and fishing tackle and rowboats may be rented.

At the head of the long flat canyon bottom is a peculiar glacial monument often mistaken for Polly Dome. Passing this, our road continues up the stream to its source, where the great Tuolumne Glacier overflowed and sent a branch southward to help carve out the stupendous depths of Tenaya Canyon.

Tuolumne Meadows (Alt. 8594), the most superb of all high mountain pleasure grounds, lies seven and a half miles from Tenaya Lake. In the region are innumerable side trips to alpine summits, to lakes and streams teeming with trout, to thundering waterfalls, and to peaceful green pastures of the highlands. Tioga Pass (Alt. 9941) is seven miles further, and another sixteen miles takes us down Leevining Canyon to the weird semi-desert region at Mono Lake. The road then continues northward to Lake Tahoe about 118 miles distant.

ROAD TRIP V

YOSEMITE TO HETCH HETCHY via BIG OAK FLAT ROAD AND HETCH HETCHY RAILROAD

(Round trip 77 miles—1 day by motor and railroad)

A new and exceptionally scenic one-day round trip between Yosemite and Hetch Hetchy has been made possible by the construction activities on the San Francisco Dam. Throughout the entire season a gasoline railroad bus runs on daily schedule between Mather (Hog Ranch) and Hetch Hetchy, stopping long enough to allow one to view the wonderful canyon and to inspect the enormous engineering project. One may motor privately from Yosemite to Mather or may ride by the auto stage, which makes one round trip daily.

From Yosemite we follow the Big Oak Flat Road (Road Trips VI and IV) to the road junction one mile north of Carl Inn, a resort on the South Fork of the Tuolumne River. At this junction (23.4 miles from Yosemite) we turn to the left on the old Hog Ranch Road, which bears to the northwest thru the pines of the Stanislaus National Forest.

The following six-mile drive to Mather is entirely thru delightful woods and meadows—a country quite attractive but with no startling scenic effects. At Mather is the Hog Ranch Ranger Station, which is connected by telephone with Yosemite and outside points. Here we again enter Yosemite National Park.

In the nine-mile rail-motor excursion to Hetch Hetchy we first traverse a dense pine forest for one mile and then, emerging at the rim of Tuolumne Canyon, have a wonderfully scenic ride to our destination.

Hetch Hetchy is a deeply sculptured Yosemite-like valley with the broad meadows of its level floor flanked by dominating castellated cliffs. Its most impressive feature is Kolana Rock, a massive promontory buttressing the precipitous south wall. The two great waterfalls—Tueeulala, the spirit of gracefulness, and Wapama, the very soul of power—tumble over the north ramparts at the upper end of the valley. Fortunate, indeed, will be the visitors of the next few seasons, for the great gorge will be as yet unflooded.

ROAD TRIP VI

YOSEMITE TO EL PORTAL via EL CAPITAN ROAD

(15 miles—1½ hours by stage)

The final hour in Yosemite National Park—that generally spent in the ride from the valley to El Portal—is one of interest, but it must be admitted, of anti-climax. Facing westward we lose the wonderful views which burst upon us in entering, but the trip, for all of that, is attractive. From Yosemite Village either the Bridalveil or the El Capitan Road may be followed. The former is the more scenic and is described as Road Trip VI-A. The latter is set forth in the following text.

Crossing Sentinel Bridge our poplar-bordered road bears northward across a wide meadow from which are magnificent views of Yosemite Falls and the Lost Arrow straight ahead, and North Dome, Royal Arches and Half Dome to the right. At the Grizzly Hotel site a road forks eastward to Mirror Lake (Road Trip II). Turning westward beneath the giant black oaks of the meadow border, we soon pass the old Hutchings Orchard. The memorial bench at the left marks the spot from which Galen Clarke so loved to contemplate the beauty of "Cholook," the fall of falls. A little further are the wild azalia gardens of Yosemite Creek. Just west of the rustic bridge a short branch road turns to the right to the foot of Yosemite Falls. We continue straight ahead, passing Yosemite Hospital at the right and then running beneath the arcade of Yosemite Lodge. Just across the road is the swimming tank, the tennis courts, laundry, etc. The main buildings occupy the site of Koom-i´-ne, the largest and most important of the old Indian villages.

Bearing southward, we now round the base of Three Brothers, the Waw-haw´-kee or "falling rocks" of the Indians. At the foot of the great buttress is Rocky Point. The Yosemite tribes called the place We-äck (the rocks) because, according to their traditions, the huge boulders in the vicinity fell upon their trail. It is among these boulders that Tenaya's three sons were captured in 1852, and the colossal monument above was named for them.

Swinging more directly westward, our road now skirts the base of El Capitan, the Tote-ack-ah-noo-la or "rock chief" of the Indians. The image of their fanciful chief is to this day pointed out on the wall two thousand feet overhead, but he is now called "The Wandering Jew." In a shallow niche 1189 feet above the road stands a hardy Jeffrey pine 82.4 feet high and two feet in diameter. For half a mile we pass thru El Capitan Meadows, where once were the Indian villages of Yu-a´-chah, Ha-eng´-ah, He-le´-jah and Aw´-o-koi-e. At certain times during the day the Cathedral Spires and Cathedral Rocks on the opposite side of the valley stand out in remarkable perspective, but under general light conditions this stereoscopic effect is entirely lacking.

Beyond El Capitan the Ribbon Fall may be seen, its dainty streamer gracefully descending into the rather harsh box-like recess in the canyon wall. Its Indian name was Lung-o-to-ko-ya, or "pigeon falls." A cross road to the left passes El Capitan Checking Station and crosses El Capitan Bridge to the Bridalveil Road south of the Merced (Road Trips I-A and VI-A). A few steps further along our route the Big Oak Flat Road turns to the right and ascends thru the shattered granite talus of the north canyon side. At this junction was the old Indian village of Hep-hep'-oo-ma.

Paralleling the Merced, we now and then are treated to glimpses of Bridalveil Fall dropping gracefully from its hanging valley and guarded at the left by Cathedral Rocks and at the right by the Leaning Tower. Where our route traverses a small meadow is the site of another vanished village, We'-tum-taw. A short distance beyond is Black Spring, which is but a few steps to the right of the road. The Yosemites called it Poot-poo-toon, and among the rocks surrounding it was a small community of the same name. Our road now bends gradually southward following the banks of the Merced. Across the stream is Bridalveil Meadow and an especially fine view of the Gates of the Valley. A short distance further is Pohono Bridge, where our road is joined by the Bridalveil Road (Road Trips I-A and VI-A) from the south side of the valley.

About a quarter of a mile westward is the old Mail Carrier's Cabin, the site of the ancient village of Ah-wah'-ma. Across the canyon the rugged ramparts of the south rim rise imposingly above and Meadow Brook pours over the edge to leap 1170 feet as Widow's Tears Fall. A small dam in the Merced diverts water for the intake of the two thousand-watt generators of the new government power house just below the road. South of the river is a grotesque promontory which is well named Pulpit Rock.

At the two small bridges about one and a half miles further down the canyon we pass the foot of Cascade Falls which, during the flood waters of early spring, is one of the most attractive scenic features of the El Portal Highway. From these bridges is also the best view of Elephant Rock, down the canyon. Less than a quarter of a mile further, Wildcat Falls pour over the cliff at the right. A short distance beyond, stage drivers often point out the image of a white Persian cat on the wall above the road. The old Coulterville Road now branches to the right and steeply ascends the canyon wall. This was the first road into Yosemite and was completed in 1874. Just below Elephant Rock is Battleship Harbor, a placid reach of the Merced in which fancied granite dreadnaughts ride anchor.

A little more than a mile further down the canyon Grouse Creek tumbles over the south wall in a series of cascades. We now pass beneath Arch Rock, a natural tunnel formed by two huge granite talus blocks. The trail bridge across the Merced, a short distance westward, is the crossing of the Sunset Trail, which passes the mid-winter ranger station opposite and ascends past the foot of Avalanche Falls to the Wawona Road, 2500 feet above.

Two miles further down the canyon we pass out of the park and into the Stanislaus National Forest thru a region of gnarled oaks and silver-gray digger pines. During the early season Indian Creek, across the canyon, forms the picturesque Chinquapin Falls.

One mile below the park line is El Portal, the terminus of the Yosemite Valley Railroad. There is here a hotel and a small store. On the opposite slope is the incline of the Yosemite Lumber Company down which flat cars loaded with logs are lowered. From El Portal a four-hour ride by railroad takes us to Merced.

ROAD TRIP VI-A

YOSEMITE VILLAGE TO POHONO BRIDGE via THE BRIDALVEIL ROAD

(5 miles—20 minutes by stage)

The Bridalveil Road parallels the south bank of the Merced from Yosemite to Pohono Bridge, five miles westward. This route is more attractive and more scenic than the northern, or El Capitan Road, which is often taken by the stages.

From Yosemite Village we bear westward across the meadows. The Sentinel towers above at the left and in the distance are the portals of the valley. About one mile takes us past a Park Ranger's cabin near the spot where Galen Clarke's house stood until 1919. Just northward, at the edge of a big meadow, was once the Indian village of Hoo'-koo-me'-ko-tah.

A little further and directly under the Sentinel stand the remaining buildings of old Camp Awahnee, occupying the site of the large and important Indian community of Loi'-ah. The name, which means "a long water basket," was also the Yosemites' appellation for the great rock tower above. The Short Trail to Glacier Point here turns to the left and begins its zigzag course up the canyon wall. The Ford Road, a subsidiary route branching to the right, leads to The Big Pine, which is the largest known specimen of western yellow pine in the park. During the flood waters of early spring, Sentinel Falls descend in a picturesque cascade at the western flank of the great obelisk.

Again continuing westward, we are treated to charming vistas across the Merced. Especially effective from this angle is the great triple pyramid of Three Brothers buttressing the north wall. Just opposite them on the banks of the river was Kis´-se, the westernmost of the large Indian villages on the south or "coyote" side of the valley. To the west a splendid profile of El Capitan is revealed and suddenly at the left of the road the Cathedral Spires, each rising 500 feet from its base, seem to tower above the south rim. The Yosemites called the latter Po-see´-na Chuck´-ah, or "mouse-proof rocks," from a fancied resemblance to their acorn caches. A village just below them in a small meadow near the river was called We´-sum-meh.

We now skirt the powerfully outlined Cathedral Rocks. At El Capitan Bridge one may cross to the north side of the river. Directly opposite is a ranger station at the foot of the Big Oak Flat Road (Road Trip IV). From that point the El Capitan Road (Road Trips I and VI) leads both up and down the valley.

Continuing along the shaded highway, we veer to the south, passing close to the foot of Bridalveil Fall, charming glimpses of which are here and there revealed between the trees. Just below a very large rock at the east margin of Bridalveil Creek is the site of the ancient village of Lem-me´-hitch´-ke. Perhaps the unspeakable awe with which the Yosemites were supposed to look upon Pohono, "the spirit of the evil wind," has been somewhat exaggerated in the past. A short subsidiary road turns to the left to the foot of the fall, a brief side trip which should be taken by all visitors.

A short drive now takes us to the junction with the Wawona Road (Road Trip III) which bears to the left at Bridalveil Checking Station and climbs thru the forests of the canyon-side. Turning to the right, we soon enter Bridalveil Meadow. Near the river was once the Indian village of Sap-pah´-sam-mah. At the edge of the meadow, about 100 feet north of the road, a dense grove of oaks and pines shelters the graves of two pioneers, Rose and Shurban, who were massacred here by the Indians in 1852. The view back across the meadows towards the Gates of the Valley is one of the best from this elevation. At the left is the great shoulder of El Capitan, with the Ribbon Fall almost hidden in a deep recess at its west. At the right of the portal the beautiful Bridalveil leaps gracefully from its hanging valley between Cathedral Rocks and the Leaning Tower.

Plunging again into the deep woods, we stop for a draught of ice-cold water at Fern Spring, and a short distance beyond emerge at the beautiful border of the Merced. Crossing Pohono Bridge we join the El Portal Road. El Portal is ten miles westward via Road Trip VI, and Yosemite five miles eastward via Road Trip I.

YOSEMITE TRAILS

For an ideal vacation-land, Yosemite could scarcely be surpassed. Of the 600 miles of trails in the park probably half are within two days walking distance of the valley. It is this portion of the park which is described in the following trail trips—the region which may be seen on walking tours from the valley as a base camp.

For the person whose days in Yosemite are limited, Glacier Point undoubtedly offers the most attractive one-day excursion. It is reached by a number of trails, chief of which are the beautiful Vernal and Nevada Falls Trail, the steep but thrilling climb up the narrow Ledge Trail, and the dusty, toilsome ascent of the Short Trail. Most thrilling of all Yosemite Trails is the ascent of Half Dome, made possible by the recent construction of a cable-guarded route up its north shoulder. Further northeastward is the commanding summit of Clouds Rest, a long one-day round trip, but well repaid by a magnificent panorama of the High Sierra. North of the Yosemite walls the most comprehensive views may be had from Eagle Peak. The top of North Dome is also a vantage point of the first order, but the round trip is a long one-day climb. The summit of El Capitan, although exceedingly lofty, is rather disappointing except for the view over its rim into the abyss below. Sierra Point is but one hour's climb above the valley and offers an especially good panorama.

Many ideal two-day walking trips from Yosemite are made possible by accommodations at the lodges in the High Sierra. Chief among these excursions are the trips to Lake Tenaya, Tuolumne Meadows and Merced Lake. Other charming trails are described in the following text.

TRAIL TRIP 1

YOSEMITE TO GLACIER POINT via VERNAL AND NEVADA FALLS AND RETURN via THE SHORT TRAIL

Reverse of Trail Trip 2

(16 miles—8 hours)

If one were so time-poor as to have but one day in Yosemite, he should by all means climb to Glacier Point via Vernal and Nevada Falls and return via the Short Trail. This most scenic trip is easily made afoot in one day and should be taken as follows rather than in the opposite direction because (a) one faces the falls in ascending, and (b) the gradual ascent is less tiring. Early in the season it is a good plan to carry a sack or newspaper for protection while passing thru the mist of Vernal Falls.

The Vernal and Nevada Falls Trail starts near Happy Isles Bridge, 2.3 miles from Yosemite Village. The trail leaves the road at the right just beyond the bridge, or we may take the footpath through Happy Isles, crossing the river on a foot-log and joining the main trail a quarter mile above. Ascending the canyon, the trail climbs 200 feet above the roaring Merced, which was here called by the Indians the "Yanopah" or "water cloud," referring to the mist of Vernal Falls. A quarter of a mile from the bridge is a fine spring. Here the Sierra Point Trail (Trail Trip 12) turns left. Rounding the base of Grizzly Peak we pass opposite the mouth of Illilouette Canyon and see Illilouette Falls (Drop 350 feet) at its head. The name is a corruption of the Indian name, Too-tool-a-we-ack. The small dam in the river below diverts water to the Happy Isles Power House. To the left of Illilouette Canyon is Panorama Cliff, along the rim of which our trail runs after a three-hour climb by the Mist Trail (one hour longer by horse trail).

Descending 100 feet the trail crosses Vernal Bridge, from which is a fine view of Vernal Falls, a half mile distant. Near this point was the old Indian Camp of Ap´-poo-meh. Straight ahead the horse trail climbs 1600 feet and then descends to the top of Vernal Falls. Pedestrians should take the much more scenic Mist Trail, which turns left just beyond the bridge, saving thereby one hour and several hundred feet climb. Paralleling the river we pass Lady Franklin Rock, from whence may be obtained excellent photographs of Vernal Falls. The trail mounts thru the boulder-strewn forest and finally rounds a rocky point on a narrow ledge. Use extreme caution on slippery wet rocks! We now enter the mist, traversing the luxuriant garden of flowers and grasses which gives the fall its name. Between 10 and 12 a.m. beautiful circular rainbows may be seen in the mist. Climbing the steep slope at the right we obtain fine profiles of the fall. The trail then swings beneath an overhanging cliff and mounts a steep narrow ledge to the top of Vernal Falls (Alt. 5049, Drop 317 feet). The Indians called the fall "Yan-o-pah," or "water cloud," which was also the name for the canyon below. Over the rim of the natural granite parapet we have an excellent outlook down the canyon. By climbing along the rim southeast of the falls we find a ladder and hanging trail descending to a grotto, from which a good view of Glacier Point is obtained.

Above Vernal Falls we pass a glacial tarn called Emerald Pool, at the upper end of which the Merced rushes down over smooth granite, forming the beautiful Silver Apron and Waterwheel.

Just above is the Diamond Cascade and bridge. Our trail now joins the horse trail, which descends from the slope above. Crossing the river at Diamond Cascade, the trail ascends to Snow Flat below Liberty Cap (Alt. 7072), which towers above to the left. This granite dome, the Mah'-ta, or "Martyr Mountain" of the Indians, can be ascended by a difficult climb up its eastern flank. Good rock-climbers will find an interesting scramble up the deep defile between this dome and Mt. Broderick (Alt. 6705) just northward. At the left of the trail is the site of the old La Casa Nevada Hotel (The Snow House), which was built in the early days and burned down in 1897. The old register is in the Yosemite Museum. The rockslide to the left fell from the face of Liberty Cap in 1918. Fishing is fair from Diamond Cascade to Nevada Falls. The trail turns left and mounts 500 feet by the famous Nevada Falls Zigzags. When white men first visited Yosemite, part of the Merced descended in a cascade where the trail is now built. At the top of the switchbacks the trail to Little Yosemite, Clouds Rest, Tuolumne Meadows and Merced Lake (Trail Trips 13, 5, 8 and 7) continues up the canyon. There is here a government telephone (Central 1 ring). The new location of a refreshment stand and rest house in the vicinity is indicated by a sign.

Our trail turns right and crosses a small bridge, thence turning southwest to the top of Nevada Falls (Alt. 5910, Height 594 ft.). Nevada is "snow" in Spanish and replaces the old Indian name Yo-wy-we. Note especially the shooting spray rockets. These are most wonderful when painted by first rays of sunshine at 7.30 to 8 a.m. Many claim that, looking down from the rim, the Nevada is the valley's most fascinating and beautiful fall. Above this point the river was called by the Yosemite Tribe "Yo-wy-we-ack," or the "twisting rock" branch.

Crossing the river just above the falls, the trail climbs abruptly 700 feet by switchbacks. At the summit the Mono Meadow and Merced Pass Trail up Illilouette Creek turns left (Trail Trip 23). Our trail turns right and follows the rim of Panorama Cliff almost level for about one mile to Panorama Point (Alt. 6224). From here is a fine view of Royal Arches, Washington Column and North Dome across the head of Yosemite Valley, and of Half Dome and Grizzly Peak to the right. The trail descends 400 feet to the top of Illilouette Falls (Alt. 5850, Fall 370 ft.). Good fishing is reported in upper Illilouette Creek. Exploration up this canyon will well repay those interested in glacial phenomena.

Climbing out of the Illilouette Canyon, the trail runs north thru open forest. The fallen trees and prostrate bushes are caused by snow-slides from Illilouette Ridge above (Alt. 8250. Fine view from summit). As the trail climbs, the view of Mt. Starr King, Mt. Clark and the High Sierra gradually unfolds. The trail joining from the south leads to Buena Vista Lake and Royal Arch Lake (Trail Trip 22). From one point in the ascent is an especially good profile of Half Dome across the canyon. Following along granite ledges the trail passes Glacier Point Hotel (Alt. 7200), from which is a most comprehensive panorama of the High Sierra. Accommodations are excellent and one should remain here over night if possible to see the sunrise. Glacier Point and the overhanging rock are about 200 yards beyond the hotel. This lookout point was called Patill'ima by the Yosemite Tribe. From here we obtain what is without doubt the vastest and most awe-inspiring view readily accessible to tourists. The valley floor is 3250 feet below. An inclined shaft elevator thru solid granite from the foot of the cliff is being planned. For trips from Glacier Point see Trail Trips 16 to 23.

The descent from Glacier Point to Yosemite is generally made by the Short Trail (5 miles, 1½ hour walk). From the hotel the trail follows westward along the canyon wall. Rounding a point we get an excellent profile view of the Gates of the Valley with Sentinel Rock at the left and El Capitan at the right. Descending 900 feet by switchbacks thru a forest of fir, sugar pine, yellow pine, Douglas fir and incense cedar, we reach Union Point (Alt. 6314—2350 feet above the valley floor). There is here a refreshment stand where cooling drinks and light lunches may be obtained. A short distance from the point is a shelter cabin and a government telephone (Central 1 ring).

Descending past Agassiz Column, a huge balancing shaft of granite, the trail zigzags down the mountain side, emerging at several vantage points from which are obtained especially fine views of Half Dome and the north end of the valley. The character of the forest now changes, oaks and laurel entering to replace the diminishing fir. The trail terminates at the foot of Sentinel Rock at the site of the old Camp Awahnee and the more ancient Indian village of Loi'-ah. Yosemite is 1.3 miles distant by road to the right. During the season a regular auto-bus service is maintained between this and other valley points.

TRAIL TRIP 2

YOSEMITE TO GLACIER POINT via THE SHORT TRAIL AND RETURN via VERNAL AND NEVADA FALLS

Reverse of Trail Trip 1

(16 miles—8 hours)

The Glacier Point excursion is a most scenic one-day trip and this is the most widely used of Yosemite trails. Parties are advised to take the reverse of this trip (Trail Trip 1) thereby obtaining views of the falls which are unnoticed on the down trip. The ascent is also more gradual and therefore less tiring.

The Short Trail to Glacier Point starts from the Bridalveil Road 1.3 miles west of Yosemite at the site of old Camp Awahnee and of the more ancient Indian village of Loi'-ah. Turning southward we ascend abruptly thru a dense forest of oak, mountain laurel, scattered pines, cedar and Douglas fir. As the trail climbs rapidly by switchbacks, broad-leaved trees disappear, their places being taken by sugar pines and true firs from above. Frequently the trail emerges at vantage points from which are obtained especially fine views of Half Dome and the north end of the valley. A climb of 2350 feet takes us past a balancing shaft of granite, Agassiz Column, to Union Point (Alt. 6314). At this fine view-point are a government shelter cabin and telephone (Central 1 ring.)

The remaining 900-foot climb to Glacier Point is thru a dense forest with some vast views to the northeast. A short level stretch near the end leads to Glacier Point (Alt. 7214). The view from the vicinity of the overhanging rock is without doubt the vastest and most awe-inspiring sight readily accessible to tourists. The Yosemite Tribe called this lookout point Patill'ima. Yosemite is 3250 feet below. An inclined shaft elevator thru solid granite from the foot of the cliff is being planned. For trips from Glacier Point see Trail Trips 16 to 23.

The Glacier Point Hotel and cottages are but 200 yards distant. The panorama of the High Sierra from the hotel balcony is especially fine. Accommodations are excellent and it is recommended that the tourist remain over night if possible to see the sunrise.

Passing the hotel the trail descends gradually along granite ledges revealing a most impressive profile of Half Dome across the canyon. During the descent into the canyon of the Illilouette several patches of fallen trees and prostrate brush are passed. These are caused by the frequent snow slides from the Illilouette Ridge above (Alt. 8250. Fine view). At a trail forks, the Buena Vista Trail (Trail Trip 22) branches south up the Illilouette Canyon. An abrupt descent by zigzags takes us to a point from which is obtained a good view of the lace-like Illilouette Fall. The name is a corruption of the old Indian name Too-tool-a-we-ack. A few feet below we stop at the lip of the fall (Alt. 5850). The canyon above abounds in glacial phenomena and will well repay a side trip for those interested in geology. Fishing is good up the canyon.

A climb of 375 feet takes us to Panorama Point (Alt. 6224), from which is an imposing view of the upper end of the valley and the mouth of Tenaya Canyon. To the right is the sheer edge of Panorama Cliff, along which our trail now follows almost level for about a mile. In the canyon below can be seen our route of about two hours hence. At a trail forks the Mono Meadow and Merced Pass Trail (Trail Trip 23) turns right into the Illilouette Creek Basin.

Now begins an abrupt descent of 700 feet by switchbacks to the Merced River which, above this point, was called by the Yosemite Tribe the Yo-wy-we-ack or "twisting rock" branch. A few steps from the bridge is the top of Nevada Falls (Alt. 5910, Drop 594 ft.). Nevada is Spanish for snow and replaces the old Indian name Yo-wy-we. Many claim that the view from the overhanging ledge is the most fascinating water-vista of Yosemite. Note especially the shooting spray rockets. These are most wonderful when painted by the first rays of sunshine at 7:30 to 8 a.m.

About a quarter of a mile upstream the trail crosses a small bridge and is joined by the Clouds Rest, Sunrise, Lake Merced and Little Yosemite Trail (Trail Trips 5, 8, 7 and 13). Here is a government telephone (Central 1 ring). Fishing is good about two miles upstream in Little Yosemite. In the following abrupt 500-foot descent by zigzags some fine profile views of Nevada Falls are obtained. When white men first visited Yosemite part of the Merced cascaded down the steep slope where the trail is now built. As the trail crosses Snow Flat at the foot of Nevada Falls, the ruins of the old "La Casa Nevada," or "Snow House," are seen at the right of the trail. The old register, which dates back to 1871, is in the Yosemite Museum. Liberty Cap (Alt. 7072), which the Indians called Mah'ta or "Martyr Mountain," towers above to the right. It may be ascended from the east and good rock climbers will find an interesting scramble up the deep defile between this dome and Mount Broderick (Alt. 6705) just northward. The talus of huge rocks above the trail fell from the face of Liberty Cap in 1918.

A bridge across the Merced takes us directly over the Diamond Cascade. Below is the Silver Apron. From the bridge upstream is fair fishing. A short distance beyond the crossing is a fork where the main or "horse trail" turns to the left and climbs 350 feet up the canyon wall in order to pass Vernal Falls. Pedestrians should turn to the right and take the far more scenic Mist Trail, thereby saving a half hour and several hundred feet climb. Following down the river we pass the Silver Apron and Waterwheel, below which is a perfect glacial tarn called Emerald Pool. Near its mouth is the rim of Vernal Falls (Alt. 5049, Drop 317 ft.). From behind the natural breast-high granite parapet we have another excellent outlook. The fall was called by the Indians Yan-o-pah, or "water cloud," which term was also applied to the canyon below. By climbing along the rim southeast of the falls we find a ladder and hanging trail descending to a grotto, from which is a good view of Glacier Point.

Nearer the fall the Mist Trail suddenly drops over the edge of the cliff and follows down a steep, narrow ledge which is well guarded by chains and iron posts. From here and from the zigzags just below we obtain excellent profiles of the fall. We now enter the mist, passing down thru a luxurious growth of grasses and flowers, which caused the fall to be given its present name. Between 10 and 12 a.m. the beautiful circular rainbows may here be seen. Use extreme caution on slippery wet rocks! Following around the base of a cliff on a narrow ledge, the trail again enters a forest and parallels the river. We stop at Lady Franklin Rock, where is obtained one of the best vistas of the falls (good photograph). A short distance downstream the two trails reunite just before crossing Vernal Bridge, from which is a good distant view of the falls. In the canyon below was the old Indian camp of Ap´-poo-meh.

The trail now mounts about 200 feet above the riotous Merced and in rounding the base of Grizzly Peak offers a clear perception of the deep recess below Illilouette Falls.

Again approaching the river we pass a spring and water trough where the Sierra Point Trail (Trail Trip 12) joins from the right. The Happy Isles Bridge on the main road is a quarter of a mile distant. We have the choice of descending by the main trail or crossing the foot-log to Happy Isles, and thence by several bridges and footpaths to the main road.

The road to the right leads to Mirror Lake. We turn left. Camp Curry is one mile distant and Yosemite Village 2.3 miles.

TRAIL TRIP 3

YOSEMITE TO NORTH DOME via YOSEMITE FALLS AND RETURN via MIRROR LAKE

Reverse of Trail Trip 4

(19.5 miles—10 hours)

The North Dome trip is a strenuous one-day climb and should be taken as follows rather than Trail Trip 4, thus avoiding the hot ascent of the Mirror Lake zigzags. One should start early, reaching the top of the falls before the heat becomes excessive.

The Yosemite Falls Trail was built in the early days and operated as a toll trail. It leaves the road a short distance west of Yosemite Lodge. In the first mile we ascend by sharp zigzags thru a shady grove of golden oak and laurel, emerging above into the open and climbing granite ledges to Columbia Point (Alt. 5031). From here is a splendid view, especially of the upper end of the valley. Turning north, the trail ascends a few feet and then follows along a granite ledge beautifully shaded by oaks, laurel, Douglas fir and pines. At the left of the trail about a quarter of a mile above Columbia Point is a spring. A short, rather steep descent takes us to Valley View, a lookout point a short distance to the right of the trail, from which is an excellent view of the valley and the Upper Yosemite Fall. Skirting the base of an almost perpendicular cliff at the left, the trail approaches the foot of the upper fall and bears to the left. From this point it is possible to leave the trail and climb to the foot of the upper fall, entering the cave under its base except during high water. The climb is dangerous because of slippery rocks.

By switchbacks the trail ascends the steep slope west of the falls, crossing a small stream after a quarter-mile climb. During the hour ascent of the zigzags, Mount Clark (Alt. 11,506), Gray Peak (Alt. 11,581) and other High Sierra summits may be seen to the southeast. Across the canyon are Glacier Point and Sentinel Dome. At a trail junction 100 feet beyond the canyon rim is a government telephone (Central 1 ring). Here the Eagle Peak and Yosemite Creek Trails continue straight ahead (Trail Trips 9, 10 and 11). Our trail turns to the right and crosses a small stream. Just beyond, the main trail passes over a low rise. A branch to the left follows south along the open ridge for a short distance to the top of the falls. From the railed lookout point, peering into the chasm below we see what Muir describes as one of the most impressive phenomena of the valley. Retracing our route to the main trail and turning left, we cross Yosemite Creek and climb 300 feet on the further side, thence turning southward. A short trail to the rim takes us to Yosemite Point (Alt. 6935), from which is a vast view of the valley and the High Sierra. The granite spire at the right and just below is "Le Hammo," the Lost Arrow of one of the most beautiful Yosemite Indian legends.

Returning to the main trail we climb parallel to the eastern rim of the cliff. To the right are Castle Cliffs and the flat summit of North Dome beyond. After a climb of 400 feet the trail crosses a ridge and traverses a dense forest of fir and pine, descending 400 feet and crossing Indian Creek. Directly south is Indian Canyon, called by the Yosemite Tribe "Le Hamite," because of the arrowwood which grew there. Their main trail into Yosemite followed along the precipitous east side of the canyon.

The Little Winkle Branch of Indian Creek is crossed a half mile beyond the main stream, and here the Snow Flat Trail continues upstream. Turning to the right, our trail passes thru a fir forest about one mile to Indian Ridge, which it follows south over disintegrating granite and thru stunted forest to the rounded summit of North Dome (Alt. 7531). The view is most comprehensive and the sheer vertical wall of Half Dome gives an impression of massiveness nowhere else obtained. To the north of the trail near the summit is Slipper Rock.

In returning to Yosemite we take all main trails to the right. Retracing our path up Indian Ridge it is possible to follow the trail back to the East or Little Winkle Fork of Indian Creek, and turn right on the Snow Flat Trail, but the better and the shorter way is to follow the plain blazes which turn to the right about a half mile from the North Dome summit and just west of the crest of Indian Ridge. Running thru a beautiful forest this trail joins the main Snow Flat Trail at the Little Winkle Branch of Indian Creek just west of Indian Rock.

It is also possible to leave the trail and follow up Indian Ridge from North Dome, gradually bearing to the right of Indian Rock and intersecting the main Mirror Lake Trail near the top of the zigzags.

Our trail follows up the East or Little Winkle Branch of Indian Creek, at the source of which the Porcupine Flat Trail branches to the left. The Mirror Lake Trail swings north of Indian Rock, and descends east to a branch of Snow Creek, passing Snow Creek Falls. Further down Snow Creek is the junction with the Lake Tenaya Trail (Trail Trips 5 and 6). Turning right we further descend Snow Creek and pass over the rim of the canyon between Basket Dome (Alt. 7602) at the right and Mt. Watkins (Alt. 8235) at the left. In the next one and a half miles a descent of 2500 feet is made by 108 switchbacks to the floor of Tenaya Canyon. Following down the canyon one mile, the trail joins the road at Mirror Lake. Yosemite is three miles distant by road.

TRAIL TRIP 4

YOSEMITE TO NORTH DOME via MIRROR LAKE AND RETURN via YOSEMITE FALLS TRAIL

Reverse of Trail Trip 3

(19.5 miles—10 hours)

This is a strenuous one-day climb. The advantage of taking the trip as follows and seeing the sunrise at Mirror Lake is more than offset by physical penalty of climbing the hot and steep Tenaya Trail zigzags. The trip is better taken in the reverse direction (Trail Trip 3). If the following route is adhered to, it is best to leave Yosemite as early as possible, carrying a canteen which should be filled about three-quarters of a mile above Mirror Lake.

Mirror Lake is three miles distant by road from Yosemite. Here our trail leaves the end of the road and skirts the west shore. Following up the canyon beneath the dense forest about one mile we suddenly turn left and start the 2500-foot ascent. From the 108 switchbacks are many fine views. After a long, tiresome climb the trail passes over the canyon rim between Mt. Watkins (Alt. 8235) at the right and Basket Dome (Alt. 7602) at the left. A short distance takes us to Snow Creek, which cascades beautifully further down its rough canyon. Turning upstream we soon arrive at a trail fork where the Tenaya Lake Trail (Trail Trip 6) turns right. We turn left, following up the west branch about a mile further. In high water Snow Creek Falls is especially attractive. The trail now makes a wide detour to the north of Indian Rock (Alt. 8526). If desirable, pedestrians may leave the trail and climb to its summit, from which are good views, thence following south down the long open ridge to the summit of North Dome.

The trail keeps at a lower elevation, passing thru almost level fir forests and meadows with a charming diversity of wild-flowers and trees. Gradually bearing southward our trail follows down the East or Little Winkle Branch of Indian Creek from its source. The main Snow Flat Trail continues down this stream, but we turn left on the plainly blazed cut-off trail to North Dome. Passing thru the dense forests on the west flank of Indian Ridge, we finally emerge on the open disintegrated granite at the crest of the long slope leading southward to North Dome. Here the Yosemite Falls Trail joins from the west. The rounded summit of North Dome (Alt. 7531) is now easily reached by a walk thru the open forest and over granite pavements, which here exhibit very well the geological phenomenon of exfoliation or weathering in concentric shells. Near the summit and to the north of the trail is Slipper Rock. From the top is a vast outlook, especially westward toward the Gates of the Valley and eastward where the great wall of Half Dome dominates the entire landscape. The floor of Yosemite Valley is partly hidden by the projecting Royal Arch Cliff. Daring rock climbers who have made the descent to the edge describe this dizzy precipice as one of the most impressive in the park.

In returning to Yosemite we take all main trails to the left. Retracing our path for about half a mile up Indian Ridge, we turn westward. One mile more thru dense forest takes us past a small stream and to the Little Winkle Branch of Indian Creek, where the main Snow Flat Trail joins from upstream. The steep canyon below was called "Le Hamite" by the Yosemite Indians because of the arrowwood which grew there. Their main trail into Yosemite followed along the precipitous east wall of the canyon.

A climb of 400 feet thru the forest now takes us to the summit of a long ridge which we follow southward, finally paralleling the edge of a deep precipice just westward from Castle Cliffs and emerging abruptly at Yosemite Point (Alt. 6935). This is one of the justly famous view-points of Yosemite and offers a remarkable combination of depths and distances. The granite spire just below and at the right is the Lost Arrow, the "Le Hammo" of the Yosemite Tribe, the story of which is one of their most charming legends.

Returning a short distance to the main trail we descend to Yosemite Creek. On the open ridge just beyond the crossing is a secondary trail which leads to the rim of the Upper Yosemite Fall, a few hundred feet distant. The wonderful view from this point is most thrillingly described by Muir.

Returning to the main trail we cross a small stream where is the junction with the Yosemite Creek, Eagle Peak and Ten Lakes Trails (Trail Trips 11, 9 and 10). There is here a government telephone (Central 1 ring). Turning left we descend abruptly 1600 feet by sharp, dusty switchbacks, finally skirting the bottom of the almost vertical cliff west of the falls. At this point one can leave the trail and climb to the foot of the upper fall, in times of low water even entering the cave beneath its base. The climb is dangerous because of the slippery rocks.

The trail now passes southward along a granite ledge beneath the shade of oaks and laurel. A short steep descent at the left of the trail takes us to Valley View, an excellent lookout point. Less than one-half mile further is Columbia Point (Alt. 5031) from which is a particularly wide and effective panorama. The following 2000-foot descent to the floor of Yosemite Valley is first along granite ledges among scattered Douglas firs and golden oaks, and finally beneath the dense laurel and oak forests of the lower talus slopes. At the foot of the trail is the El Capitan Road. Auto busses run between this and other valley points on half-hour service. Yosemite Lodge is a short distance eastward and Yosemite Village is about three-quarters of a mile distant via Yosemite Lodge and the foot-bridge.

TRAIL TRIP 5

RETURN via MIRROR LAKE

Reverse of Trail Trip 6

(32.25 miles—2-day trip)

Owing to the stupendous mountain scenery and the charming diversity of meadows and forests thru which this trail passes, it deserves to be ranked among the most scenic of Yosemite Trails. Two days should be taken for the trip. Excellent accommodations will be found at Tenaya Lake Lodge, but reservations should be made in advance from Yosemite.

From Yosemite we take the road past Camp Curry to Happy Isles Bridge. Here we turn to the right on the main Glacier Point Trail and follow Trail Trip 1 as far as the trail junction at the top of the Nevada Falls zigzags. At this point we turn left, rising rather abruptly about 200 feet and then following up the north bank of the Merced river. About a half mile takes us to a junction where the Little Yosemite Trail (Trail Trip 13) continues on up the Little Yosemite Valley. Our trail turns to the left uphill and mounts by switchbacks thru a dense stand of pine, fir and cedar. A climb of 1000 feet in one and a half miles takes us to the junction where the Half Dome Trail (Trail Trip 14) turns to the left. Our trail turns right along a gently inclined bench and in one-half mile again branches. To the right is the Sunrise Trail (Trail Trip 8). By taking this trail and branching north on the cut-off route about two miles further, some distance can be saved by those who do not wish to visit Clouds Rest.

The main trail, which turns to the left, should be followed. It continues the climb towards the northeast. About half a mile westward are the two Quarter Domes (Alt. 8160 and 8276). At an altitude of 8200 we pass a spring. Above this the trail rises sharply by zigzags to the base of the Pinnacles (Alt. 9451). A climb of a few hundred feet along their east flank takes us near the summit of Clouds Rest (Alt. 9924). A short branch trail up the steep and rocky slope leads to the crest, from which is a vast view in all directions. This is the highest of the Yosemite Valley summits.

We descend again to the trail, which turns northeast and follows along the canyon rim, keeping generally just east of the crest. In two miles the cut-off trail from Little Yosemite joins from the right. After gradually bearing to the left, now on the Tenaya Canyon slope, we pass a small lake at the right of the trail. The lake contains no fish, but upstream one mile is Mildred Lake (Alt. 9600), in which are some very large trout.

Traversing Forsyth Pass, the picturesque trail now descends 1000 feet in the next two and a half miles over rough granite to the rocky meadows just below Lake Tenaya (Alt. 8141). This large, deep glacial lake is beautifully surrounded by granite crags and domes. Its Indian name, Py-we-ack, meant "lake of the glistening rocks," referring to the glacier-polished granite at its upper end. The lake and the peak to the east were renamed "Tenaya" when the last remnant of Chief Tenaya's Yosemite Tribe was captured here by the Mariposa Battalion on June 5, 1851. There is here good camping, and pasturage seems abundant, but horses do not like it and should therefore be hobbled to prevent straying. The lake was stocked with Loch Leven trout in 1911 and with rainbow, eastern brook, black spotted and steelhead in 1917, 1918 and 1919, but fishing is only fair. Crossing the meadows at the outlet our trail joins the Tioga Road, which follows the western margin of the lake to the Tenaya Lake Lodge, about one and a half miles distant, where good accommodations will be found. The road continues up the canyon to Tuolumne Meadows seven and a half miles distant, and to Mono Lake.

From Tenaya Lake to Mirror Lake are two trails, which unite after about two and a half miles. The first of these starts from the road just beyond the sharp bend about one and a quarter miles from the lake and bears southwest thru the forest. The other, which is far more scenic, crosses the meadow and park-like forest below the lake, passing a beautiful little unnamed lake where good camp sites and horse-feed will be found, but no fishing. Beyond this is a gradual 300-foot ascent along an open ridge. Below is the deep chasm of the inaccessible and little known Tenaya Canyon. The unbroken granite abutments of Clouds Rest sweep down almost 4000 feet. After each snowstorm these cliffs shed avalanche after avalanche. At about two and a half miles from Tenaya Lake the less scenic trail from the Tioga Road joins from the right. Descending southwest thru timber the trail passes Hidden Lake (Alt. 8400—picturesque but no fishing) which is to the left of the trail but invisible without making a detour. About two miles further is Tenmile Meadow (Alt. 8400) on a small tributary of Tenaya Creek. This is a good place to noon. There is here fine horse-feed, also good camp sites, but no fishing.

An abrupt climb of 650 feet now takes us over a spur ridge and to the source of the east branch of Snow Creek. There is here a small meadow at the left of the trail, where good horse-feed and camp sites will be found. A 1500-foot descent by zigzags thru scattered timber takes us down a side canyon to Snow Creek, across which is a foot-log. About 300 yards beyond the crossing, the North Dome Trail (Trail Trip 4) turns northwest and follows up the west branch of Snow Creek. We turn left, passing thru a beautiful forest of Jeffrey pine, lodgepole pine and fir. Fishing is fair, but the trout are small. About one mile below the crossing we suddenly emerge at the rim of the canyon between Mt. Watkins (Alt. 8235) at the left and Basket Dome (Alt. 7602) at the right. The following abrupt descent of 2500 feet by 108 switchbacks takes us to the bottom of Tenaya Canyon. Turning downstream our trail enters a dense forest of oaks, laurel, pine and cedar. One mile of almost level path takes us to Mirror Lake, where we skirt the west shore to the end of the road. Yosemite is three miles distant by road.

TRAIL TRIP 6

YOSEMITE TO TENAYA LAKE via MIRROR LAKE AND RETURN via FORSYTH PASS AND CLOUDS REST

Reverse of Trail Trip 5

(32.25 miles—2-day trip)

Tenaya Lake is one of the gems of the High Sierra. The very scenic two-day round trip from Yosemite is too long and strenuous to be attempted in one day. Excellent accommodations will be found at Tenaya Lake Lodge, but reservations should be made in advance by telephone. If the trip is to be taken in the following direction one should start early to avoid the intense heat of the zigzags above Mirror Lake. Water should be carried.

The trail starts at Mirror Lake, three miles from Yosemite. One should plan to see sunrise there (about 8 a.m. in summer). Skirting the west shore the trail follows up the canyon about one mile, thru a dense forest of oak, laurel, yellow pine, Douglas fir and incense cedar. Then begins a long, hard climb of 2500 feet up 108 switchbacks (one and a half miles—two hours).

Above the rim of the canyon the trail follows the west bank of Snow Creek. Fishing is fair but the trout small. Further down stream are picturesque cascades. After passing thru a forest of Jeffrey pine, lodgepole pine and fir for about one mile the trail to North Dome and Tioga Road (Trail Trip 4) branches to the left. Our trail turns right and crosses Snow Creek (foot-log) about 300 yards beyond. We then climb 1500 feet by zigzags up an east branch of Snow Creek thru scattered timber. At the headwaters of this creek is a small meadow at the right of the trail, a good campsite with forage fairly abundant.

Rising over a spur ridge, the trail drops abruptly about 650 feet to Tenmile Meadow (Alt. 8400) on a small tributary of Tenaya Creek. This is a good place to noon. It is a fine camp and horse-feed is abundant, but there is no fishing. Climbing to the northeast thru timber the trail passes Hidden Lake (Alt. 8400—picturesque, but no fishing), which is a short distance to the right of the trail but not visible from it. About two and a half miles beyond Tenmile Meadow the trail forks. The left branch leads to the Tioga Road, about one mile distant, which may then be followed to Lake Tenaya. The trail to the right is far more scenic. It follows an open granite ridge revealing the wonderfully glaciated canyon below and Clouds Rest opposite. Down the canyon are Half Dome and the head of Yosemite Valley. Descending about 300 feet the trail passes a beautiful little unnamed lake, where are good camp sites and abundant pasturage, but no fishing. From here the trail traverses almost level meadows and a scattered forest of lodgepole pine one mile to Lake Tenaya (Alt. 8141). This large, deep glacial lake is beautifully surrounded by granite crags and domes and is a splendid place for a permanent camp. Its Indian name was Py-we-ack, or "lake of the glistening rocks," because of the glacier-polished granite pavements near the north end. On June 5, 1851, when the last remnant of old Chief Tenaya's Yosemite Tribe was captured here by the Mariposa Battalion, the lake and the dominant pyramidal peak at the east were renamed "Tenaya." Forage is abundant in the vicinity but it is not liked by horses, so stock should be hobbled. The lake was stocked with Loch Leven trout in 1911 and with rainbow, eastern brook, black spotted and steelhead in 1917, 1918 and 1919, but fishing is only fair. The Tioga Road follows around the western margin of the lake to Tenaya Lake Lodge, about one and a half miles distant, where good accommodations will be found. The road continues up the canyon to Tuolumne Meadows, seven and a half miles distant, and to Mono Lake.

Our return trail starts just below the lake. Crossing the meadow it mounts the east slope steadily climbing 1000 feet up the rough granite to Forsyth Pass, two and a half miles distant. Fine views are obtained all along the trail. Near the summit a small shallow lake can be seen east of the trail. By leaving the trail and following up the small stream about one mile, Mildred Lake (Alt. 9600) can be reached. This little lake contains some very large trout. From Forsyth Pass the trail follows southwest along the rim of Tenaya Canyon about two miles and then forks. The trail to the left descends thru timber about three miles and joins the Sunrise Trail, making the shortest route to Yosemite. The trail to the right leads to Clouds Rest and is far more scenic than the cut-off. It follows just east of the canyon rim for about two miles and joins the Clouds Rest Trail. A short, steep ascent by foot over rough granite takes us to Clouds Rest (Alt. 9925), the highest point near Yosemite. From here is a vast panorama to all sides. Returning to the trail we descend thru stunted forest and rough granite. To the right are The Pinnacles (Alt. 9451). The trail descends about 1000 feet by switchbacks to a spring. Quarter Domes (Alt. 8160 and 8276) are half a mile west on the canyon rim. The trail descends thru denser and denser forest. A short distance below, the Sunrise Trail joins from the east. After trending westward along a bench the trail is joined from the northwest by the Half Dome Trail. Descending thru the pine forest, we now and then are treated to glimpses of Mt. Starr King across Little Yosemite. About one-third of a mile takes us to another junction where a branch trail turns left descending 400 feet into Little Yosemite. The main trail passes to the right of a granite knob and reaches the floor of Little Yosemite Valley near the lower end, where it is joined by a trail from up the canyon. Turning right we pass Liberty Cap and after a 200-foot descent join the main Glacier Point Trail at the top of Nevada Falls. There is here a government telephone (Central 1 ring). We turn right. Yosemite is six miles distant via Trail Trip 2.

TRAIL TRIP 7

YOSEMITE TO LAKE MERCED

(16.5 miles—6 hours)

The round trip from Yosemite to Merced Lake is an exceedingly scenic two-day excursion. One should telephone in advance for accommodations at the Merced Lake Lodge. Pedestrians may save an hour's hard climb by taking the Mist Trail to the top of Vernal Falls. An excellent three-day trip may be made by combining Trail Trips 7 and 6. First day: Lake Merced. Second day: Clouds Rest and Lake Tenaya via Forsyth Pass. Third day: Yosemite via the summit of North Dome and Yosemite Falls Trail.

From Yosemite we take the road on the south side of the valley past Camp Curry to Happy Isles Bridge. Here we turn right on the main Glacier Point Trail and follow Trail Trip 1 to the junction at the top of the Nevada Falls switchbacks. The Glacier Point Trail (Trail Trip 1) turns right and crosses a small bridge. We take the left-hand trail, which rises about 200 feet and follows up the Merced River. About half a mile beyond, the Little Yosemite Trail (Trail Trip 13) continues up the canyon. The main trail turns to the left and zigzags upward thru a dense stand of pine, fir and cedar. A climb of about 800 feet in one and a half miles takes us to the junction with the Half Dome Trail (Trail Trip 14), which branches left. Our trail turns eastward along a gently sloping bench. After a quarter of a mile the Clouds Rest Trail (Trail Trip 5) continues to climb to the left. The Merced Lake Trail turns right, fording a small creek and thence following up the west bank of Sunrise Creek, crossing about a mile above to the east bank. About half a mile above the crossing is Hopkins Meadow, where the Sunrise Trail to Tuolumne Meadows (Trail Trip 8) branches to the left.

We turn right, passing thru almost level open granite country for the next two miles where we obtain grand views of Little Yosemite, of the deep canyon of the Merced, and of Mt. Clark and Mt. Starr King toward the south. Descending some short, steep switchbacks the trail again becomes almost level and passes the picturesque little Duck Lake at the right of the trail. Rising a few feet we now descend abruptly into Echo Creek Canyon, crossing Echo Creek about a quarter of a mile from the Merced River. Here at Echo Valley are good camp sites, excellent feed and fine fishing. Echo Creek was stocked in 1905 with eastern brook trout. Steelhead and German brown trout will also be found in the river. The old "Merced Lake Trail," which is shown on the U.S.G.S. map as ascending Echo Creek is in very poor condition and is no longer used. From Echo Valley the trail climbs about 100 feet over a granite spur, in the ascent passing thru a beautiful forest of western yellow pine. Following for one mile along the glaciated granite slope, the trail parallels the river, which here descends in a series of rapids, cascades and low falls.

We arrive finally at Lake Merced (Alt. 7300). This is one of the most accessible and well known of the lakes in Yosemite's High Sierra. At its shores and along the entire seven-mile canyon above are ideal camping places. Horse-feed is abundant above the lake. Fishing is excellent in both lake and river. The lake contains Loch Leven, German brown and rainbow trout. Rowboats may be hired at fifty cents per hour or $2.50 per day. Merced Lake is undoubtedly the best base camp for trips thruout the entire upper watershed of the Merced River.

The trail skirts the north edge of the lake, passing into a beautiful forest of sugar pine and western yellow pine at the upper end. Just above the lake is Merced Lake Lodge, with excellent accommodations. One may here rent a fishing outfit and some supplies may be obtained. Washburn Lake is three miles further up the canyon.

TRAIL TRIP 8

YOSEMITE TO TUOLUMNE MEADOWS via SUNRISE TRAIL

(28 miles—12 hours)

The Sunrise Trail has long been famous as one of the most scenic routes between Yosemite and Tuolumne Meadows. The walk is almost too long to be enjoyed in one day and is better taken in two.

From Yosemite Village we follow the road south of the river, past Camp Curry to Happy Isles Bridge. There we turn left on the Glacier Point Trail and follow Trail Trip 1 to the junction at the top of Nevada Falls. Again turning left we skirt the south base of Liberty Cap and climb 200 feet to the Little Yosemite Valley. After following along the margin of the placid Merced we veer abruptly to the left at the first trail junction. Straight ahead is Little Yosemite (Trail Trip 13). Our route mounts the timbered slope to the northward and we now and then catch glimpses of the round dome of Mt. Starr King across Little Yosemite. A climb of 800 feet takes us to the junction where the Half Dome Trail (Trail Trip 14) turns northwest. We take the right-hand trail, which trends eastward along a gently sloping bench. The Clouds Rest Trail (Trail Trip 5) now branches northward directly up the slope.

Our trail bears eastward and shortly crosses a small branch of Sunrise Creek. The trail now follows up the north bank of Sunrise Creek, crossing about a mile above to the south side. One-half mile further is Hopkins Meadow and a junction where the Merced Lake Trail (Trail Trip 7) turns right. Horse-feed is here moderately abundant and camp sites fair. The Sunrise Trail continues up the canyon and is shortly joined by the Forsyth Pass Trail from the north (Trail Trip 5). Reaching the head of Sunrise Creek and ascending the east flank of Sunrise Mountain by long sandy zigzags, the trail emerges at several vantage points from which Mt. Clark is most advantageously seen to the south. The trail now leads almost level through lodgepole pine and fir forests, emerging suddenly at the foot of Long Meadow. To the north is the sharp spire of Columbia Finger (Alt. 10,700) and Tenaya Peak (Alt. 10,300) at the left. Horse-feed is abundant here late in the season but the meadow is generally cold. There is no fishing in the creek. Just beyond the 400-foot ridge to the west is Mildred Lake, in which are some very large trout.

After following up Long Meadow, the trail rounds the eastern base of Columbia Finger, passing over glaciated granite and thru stunted forests. The serrate crest of Echo Peak (Alt. 11,100) towers imposingly at the right across the canyon. A rise of a few feet takes us over Cathedral Pass (Alt. 9850). Just beyond is a beautiful unnamed lake above which the spires of Cathedral Peak rise impressively at the north. Skirting the east shore of this little lake at about timber line, the trail bears northward across a sandy plateau where white bark pine grows abundantly. To the west, down the canyon, can be seen the upper end of Cathedral Lake (Alt. 9250) about one mile distant. Here camping and fishing are good. The lake was stocked long ago and re-stocked in 1915 by fish from Tuolumne Meadows. Continuing around the west flank of Cathedral Peak the trail gradually bears northeast, descending into denser forests of lodgepole pine, fir and hemlock. To the left can be seen the summit of Fairview Dome (Alt. 9250) about one mile distant. A gradual descent through the dense forest, which is especially noted for its many beautiful mountain hemlocks, takes us finally to the south edge of Tuolumne Meadows, where the trail joins the Tioga Road. The ranger camp and Sierra Club Lodge are about one mile east.

TRAIL TRIP 9

YOSEMITE TO EAGLE PEAK, EL CAPITAN AND GENTRY

(14 miles. Eagle Peak and return, 13 miles—8 hours)

The round trip to the summit of Eagle Peak via Yosemite Falls Trail is one of the most attractive of one-day Yosemite excursions. From the valley to the crest of El Capitan via the Yosemite Falls Trail, returning via Gentry and the Big Oak Flat Road, is too long and hard a trip to be attempted in one day except by the most hardened walkers. The trail to Eagle Peak is excellent, but from that point to the summit of El Capitan it is in poor condition. From this point along the north rim to Gentry the route is so overgrown by brush as to be almost impassable.

From Yosemite we follow Trail Trip 3 as far as the trail junction above the zigzags west of the Upper Yosemite Fall. Here we continue straight ahead, paralleling Yosemite Creek, to another junction a quarter of a mile above. The trail to the north leads to Ten Lakes and Hetch Hetchy (Trail Trips 10 and 11). We turn to the left, climbing westward near the north bank of Eagle Creek over an old terminal moraine. One mile from the junction is Eagle Peak Meadow (Alt. 7200), where are good camp sites and forage. Ascending the creek to its source, the trail continues south along the ridge, climbing abruptly the last half mile to Eagle Peak (Alt. 7333), one of Yosemite's finest lookout points. To the east the 3800-foot precipice gives a vast impression of depth.

About one-third mile from the summit the little-used El Capitan Trail branches to the west. Descending by sharp switchbacks to the head of a small draw, the trail follows the rim westward thru a brushy forest, undulating over the flat divides between several brooklets. Swinging southward our trail emerges on an open transverse ridge, which it follows a short distance to the summit of El Capitan (Alt. 7564), from which is a commanding outlook both up and down the valley. It is possible to carefully descend towards the southeast to the rim, where a slightly extending ledge allows one to peer over the sheer wall of the 3000-foot cliff.

The old El Capitan Trail to Gentry branches to the west about one-third of a mile north from the summit and continues thru very brushy country along the north rim to Ribbon Creek, about one mile distant. From this point if one is a good woodsman and brush-fighter, the old blazes may be followed thru a three-mile tangle to the Gentry Checking Station on the Big Oak Flat Road. Yosemite is then 8.1 miles distant by road.

TRAIL TRIP 10

YOSEMITE TO TEN LAKES via YOSEMITE CREEK

(One way 17 miles—7 hours)

The recently constructed Ten Lakes Trail makes the exceptionally beautiful Ten Lakes Basin and Grant Lakes easily accessible from Yosemite. The round trip is too long to be attempted in one day. The lakes offer most attractive sites for a permanent camp, and several of them are well stocked with trout.

We follow the Yosemite Falls Trail (Trail Trip 3) from its beginning just west of Yosemite Lodge to the trail junction at the top of the upper zigzags. Here the Yosemite Point and North Dome Trail turns right and crosses a small creek. Those who have not visited the top of the upper fall should by all means turn aside, for it is but a short distance—less than five minutes' walk. Our main trail continues straight ahead paralleling without crossing Yosemite Creek thru a beautiful mixed forest where the tree-lover will find a few specimens of western white pine. At about one-quarter mile (4.0 miles from Yosemite) the Eagle Peak Trail (Trail Trip 9) branches to the left. We follow up the west margin of the creek, generally thru dense forests, but emerging at times to clatter over polished and striated granite pavements where monster mountain junipers grotesquely spread their gnarled branches. Great "potholes" have been formed by the stream where it rushes over the smoothly planed bedrock. At a point 3.7 miles above the Eagle Peak Trail junction the main trail continues to the left up the west fork (Trail Trip 11). Our trail, which turns right and keeps on up the main fork canyon, is considerably less traveled. In the next 2.3 miles we pass over rough granite up the west bank of the main stream to the Yosemite Creek Ranger Station on the Tioga Road. There is here a government telephone. Good camp sites will be found at the crossing a quarter of a mile east of the cabin and fair feed upstream. Fishing is fair to poor. There are better camps, feed and fishing about three miles upstream.

At the Tioga Road the trail is indistinct. We cross the bridge and follow up the east bank of Yosemite Creek on the main road until the blazes are sighted. The first third of a mile is easily traversed, but the following one and a quarter miles are rough. About three miles above the bridge is a meadow with abundant pasturage. This is a good campsite and fishing is fair upstream. In the next three miles the trail gradually ascends to an elevation of 9200 feet, leaving Yosemite Creek and passing over the flat divide into the Tuolumne River drainage. At the summit one can leave the trail and walk southeast 1.5 miles to Grant Lakes (Alt. 9500). These are two beautiful mountain lakes, the upper one being in a rugged cirque with sheer walls rising above at the east. Both were stocked in 1917 with rainbow and eastern brook trout.

The Ten Lakes Trail continues north over the tableland and descends 600 feet by switchbacks into the Ten Lakes Basin (Alt. about 9400), seven miles from the Tioga Road. Here are many ideal camp sites and good forage except early in the season. The lakes were stocked with eastern brook trout in 1908, 1913, 1915 and 1918 with Loch Leven in 1908, and with steelhead in 1918. Fishing is reported excellent. A walk of one and a half miles due north takes us without climbing to the summit of Grand Mountain (Alt. 9350), from which is obtained a most impressive view of the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne and Muir Gorge just below. A still finer and more comprehensive panorama may be had from the summit of Colby Mountain (Alt. 9700) on the canyon rim 2.5 miles northeast from Ten Lakes. For this short side trip one should leave the trail just before its descent into the basin and follow northward on the ridge that juts out into the main Tuolumne Canyon.

TRAIL TRIP 11

YOSEMITE TO HETCH HETCHY via YOSEMITE CREEK, HARDEN LAKE AND SMITH MEADOW

(31 miles—12 hours)

From Yosemite to Hetch Hetchy is a long one-day trail trip. The following route is not especially scenic, traversing as it does the rather flat forested plateau west of Yosemite Creek. The country north of the Tioga Road is heavily grazed. Feed is sometimes scarce on this account, and the numerous cattle trails are often confusing. Near Hetch Hetchy the railroad has obliterated about three miles of trail, making it necessary to follow the railroad grade. Further changes may be expected as the work in Hetch Hetchy advances.

From Yosemite we follow Trail Trip 3 to the trail junction near the top of Yosemite Falls zigzags. Here we continue straight ahead up the west bank of Yosemite Creek, passing beneath a beautiful forest of Jeffrey pine, white and red fir, lodgepole pine and scattered western white pine. At about a quarter mile (four miles from Yosemite) a trail branches left to Eagle Peak (Trail Trip 9). In tracing the following few miles up Yosemite Creek we often cross pavements of glaciated granite where will be found some magnificent specimens of mountain juniper. Note also the potholes in the creek bed. At three and three-quarters miles from the Eagle Peak Trail Junction the Ten Lakes Trail (Trail Trip 10) turns northeast, following up the main stream. Our trail turns left and parallels the west branch of Yosemite Creek, two and a half miles to the Tioga Road, which we now follow northwestward for five miles, passing several meadows in which are good horse-feed and camp sites. One of the largest of these meadows is White Wolf. The small stream south of the road is the headwaters of the Middle Fork of the Tuolumne River. There is here fair fishing but the trout are small.

At a point where the road curves to the southwest, the Harden Lake Trail branches to the right. About one mile northward is a trail junction where the Hetch Hetchy Trail turns westward and the Harden Lake and Pate Valley Trail turns eastward. Harden Lake (Alt. 7575) is but a few steps distant but invisible from the Hetch Hetchy Trail. It is small and contains no trout, but offers an attractive campsite among the meadows and park-like forests.

From Harden Lake we turn westward and for six miles ride thru unbroken forest to Smith Meadow on Cottonwood Creek. Here the Smith Peak Trail turns northeast. The 1200 foot climb in two miles to Smith Peak (Alt. 7835) is well worth a side trip, as it offers a superb panorama. The north slope drops precipitously 4200 feet to the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne.

At Smith Meadow another trail follows down Cottonwood Creek and leads to Hog Ranch, seven miles distant. Our trail turns northeast and in five miles descends to the San Francisco Railroad grade, which it intersects about halfway between Hog Ranch and Hetch Hetchy. Since the trail has here been obliterated it is necessary to follow the railroad grade which, with pack animals, is rather dangerous on account of the possible meeting with a train. Two miles northward at the end of the railroad is the city camp and offices, and a short distance beyond, the dam-site. From here a good road descends to the floor of Hetch Hetchy, about one mile distant.

TRAIL TRIP 12

YOSEMITE TO SIERRA POINT

(4 miles—3 hours—Round trip 1/2 day)

For years there was a search for a point in Yosemite from which the five great waterfalls—Upper and Lower Yosemite, Vernal, Nevada and Illilouette—might be seen. The quest was finally ended when in 1897 Mr. Charles A. Bailey and a friend computed the location of such a point by triangulation. To their surprise it was not one of the dominating summits, but occurred rather low on the west flank of Grizzly Peak. The first ascent on June 14, 1897, proved the calculation to be correct and the crag was named Sierra Point in honor of the Sierra Club.

The trail starts from Happy Isles, which are 2.3 miles distant from Yosemite. Here we turn south on the main Vernal and Nevada Falls Trail or cross Happy Isles by the footpath. A quarter mile takes us to a spring and water-trough, where the Sierra Point Trail branches to the left and ascends the flank of Grizzly Peak by switchbacks. A leisurely ascent may be made in forty-five minutes. From the point is not only a good view of the falls but an impressive panorama. The depths and distances are accentuated by the promontories being above the observer and the canyons far below.

TRAIL TRIP 13

LITTLE YOSEMITE

(Round trip, 14 to 20 miles—6 to 12 hours)

Little Yosemite, although quite accessible and most charming in its diversity of scenery, beauty and absolute restfulness, remains unknown to most tourists. It deserves at least one day in one's Yosemite itinerary. Fishing is reported good and those interested in geology or botany will be well repaid by the trip.

Above Nevada Falls the canyon of the Merced expands to broad level meadows walled in by precipitous cliffs 1500 to 2000 feet high. Here in Little Yosemite are exhibited all of the Yosemite features—dome structure, exfoliation, glacial phenomena, "royal arches," etc., but on a somewhat smaller scale. Even the forests and flowers are similar, for the altitude is here only 6000 feet—two thousand feet higher than Yosemite. The level floor, which has also resulted from the filling in of an ancient lake, is broken in but three places by the crests of terminal moraines, which extend across the valley and cause the Merced to cascade beautifully in "silver aprons." In three miles the polished granite walls again converge to form a narrow canyon from which the river emerges, plunging over a beautiful cascade and into a picturesque glacial tarn. The most outstanding scenic feature of the valley is the perfectly formed Sugarbowl Dome (lately renamed Bunnell Point) at its head. Lost Lake, near the south base of Half Dome, is a swamp part of the season and later a boggy meadow. It is interesting only as being in the transition stage between mountain lake and mountain meadow.

Kah-win´-na-bah´ was the Indian name for the valley as well as the large summer camp located there. The river was known as the Yanopah.

Little Yosemite is reached by following Trail Trip 1 to the top of the Nevada Falls zigzags, thence turning left and following Trail Trip 5 to the first junction, from which we continue up the canyon. The head of the canyon is three miles eastward. The region is an excellent place for a permanent camp away from the overcrowded valley and one may easily arrange at Yosemite for the delivery here of a camp outfit and supplies.

TRAIL TRIP 14

HALF DOME

(Round trip, 20 miles—12 hours)

From the time Yosemite was discovered, the mile-high summit of Half Dome was regarded as unattainable. The few mountaineers who attempted its ascent returned saying it would never be climbed. Finally there came a young Scotchman, Captain George C. Anderson, with an irrepressible determination to accomplish the feat. After all methods of clinging to the smooth, steeply inclined granite had failed he procured drills, hammer and eye-bolts, and set out to reach the summit by rising from peg to peg. Slowly his ladder grew and finally his goal was reached on October 12, 1875. Anderson was so enthused over the wonderful dome and the sublime views from the summit that he constructed a trail to "The Saddle," from whence his pegs led to the top. Here he determined to build a hotel, but his untimely death in a lonely cabin in Little Yosemite prevented its completion.

In 1883 the pegs were swept away by a great, avalanche. Some were later replaced by daring climbers, but the ascent remained so dangerous that it was seldom attempted. From 1899 no ascents were made until 1912, when two adventurous youths fastened ropes to the few remaining pegs and attained the summit. Following this, the dome was frequently climbed. In 1919 a public-spirited citizen of San Francisco donated the money to build a first-class trail to the summit. This was constructed under the auspices of the Sierra Club, and the once perilous ascent finally made safe to all.

The round trip to the summit is one of the most thrilling and scenic one-day Yosemite excursions. Parties should start early and carry canteens. From Happy Isles the main Glacier Point Trail (Trail Trip 1) should be followed (take the Mist Trail if walking) to the top of the Nevada Falls zigzags. Here we turn left and follow the Clouds Rest Trail (Trail Trip 5). A climb of 800 feet above the Little Yosemite Valley takes us to a small stream. About 200 yards further, in a fine grove of Jeffrey pine and incense cedar, the Clouds Rest Trail bears to the right along a bench, while our trail climbs the long switchbacks to the left. The remaining 500-foot climb is thru dense forest. Anderson's old trail crosses our route in one place and zigzags up the hillside about a quarter mile eastward. Just below the ridge and about 200 yards to the right of the trail is a spring near the big pile of stones, which are the only relics of Captain Anderson's camp. Canteens should be filled here, as no water will be found higher. A short climb takes us to the crest of the ridge at the lowest point between Quarter Domes (Alt. 8276 and 8160) at the northeast and Half Dome at the southwest.

At the ridge top is a forest of lodgepole pine and a sudden transition to pure fir as we cross to the northwestern slope where the climate is more severe. Climbing beneath these firs we suddenly emerge at the crest and obtain a wide view of the High Sierra on one side and the depths of Tenaya Canyon on the other. A few minutes' walk along the open ridge takes us to the rustic entrance which marks the beginning of the foot trail. The pile of timbers and boards nearby were hewn and split by Captain Anderson to be used for his Half Dome Hotel. The foot-trail now climbs abruptly 250 feet by short zigzags and stairs to "The Saddle," along the crest of which we continue to the base of the final ascent.

If tennis shoes are to be used they should be put on at this point. The tool-box nearby contains ropes and safety belts for the use of the public, but the ascent is perfectly safe without them.

From here an 800-foot double cable railing with iron posts every ten feet leads to the top. On the steep slopes are footholds, and at one place a fifty-foot ladder carries us over the most dangerous part of the ascent. Turning to the right at the top of the cableway we follow the monuments across the surprisingly flat summit to the brink of the great northeast face, where we find an overhanging shelf of granite. The panorama at all sides is inexpressibly grand, but some of the valley features suffer by being dwarfed in the great distances below.

The descent should be started not later than 3 to 4 p.m. in order to reach Yosemite before dark.

TRAIL TRIP 15

YOSEMITE TO GLACIER POINT via THE LEDGE TRAIL

(2.5 miles. Average 4 hours climb)

Next to Half Dome, the Ledge Trail is the most thrilling of Yosemite climbs. The ascent was formerly quite dangerous, but in 1918 a safe foot-trail was constructed. The record ascent is fifty-three minutes, but this is a steep, hard, 3200-foot climb and will take the average individual three to five hours.

The trail starts from the Happy Isles Road, turning southward just east of the new Le Conte Lodge. It climbs the talus slope above Camp Curry and turns westward up a steep ledge. As the trail mounts to view-commanding heights there are many unusual and impressive glimpses into the depths below. Reaching a steep canyon, the trail turns sharply to the left and climbs beside a small creek. The water is polluted and to drink it is dangerous. Near the top, the trail gradually becomes less and less steep and finally crosses the canyon rim only a few feet distant from Glacier Point and the Overhanging Rock. Glacier Point Hotel is about 200 yards southward.

TRAIL TRIP 16

GLACIER POINT TO SENTINEL DOME

(Round trip, 2 miles in 2 hours)

The short excursion from Glacier Point to the summit of Sentinel Dome is well worth while. The round trip can easily be made afoot in two hours and many hikers include it in their "Glacier Point" day.

From the hotel we follow the Chinquapin Road about a quarter of a mile. Just beyond a spring at the left of the road, the trail turns to the right and climbs abruptly beneath the firs and pines. Gradually the forest becomes more open and park-like, and the firs are replaced by hardy Jeffrey pines. During the last quarter mile of the ascent we pass over weathered granite which has exfoliated in slabs near the top. At the rounded summit is a gnarled and wind-blown Jeffrey pine—probably the most photographed tree in the park. To the east is an exceptionally fine panorama of the High Sierra.

In returning to Glacier Point we follow the trail to the south, intersecting the road about 300 yards away. Here we turn left, noting the soft decomposing granite which seems particularly susceptible to weather conditions. The distance beyond to the hotel is one and a half miles.

TRAIL TRIP 17

GLACIER POINT TO FORT MONROE via POHONO TRAIL

Reverse of Trail Trip 18

(11.7 miles—5 hours. Round trip from Yosemite, 24 miles—13 hours)

This is one of the most beautiful Yosemite trails. With very little climbing the trail parallels the south rim thru delightfully attractive forests and wild-flower gardens, emerging from time to time to reveal vast views across and into the valley. The round trip from Yosemite to Glacier Point and thence to Fort Monroe via the Pohono Trail, returning to the valley via the Wawona Road is too long a trip to be attempted by the average walker in one day. It is best to stay over night at the Glacier Point Hotel, starting early the next morning.

Leaving the Glacier Point Hotel we follow the road southwestward about two miles, turning to the right at the Pohono Trail sign. We now follow thru a dense fir forest for one mile, emerging at the canyon rim at The Fissures. These are great cracks only a few feet wide and hundreds of feet deep. Just beyond is Taft Point (Alt. 7503). From here is a wonderful view, especially of the sheer 3500-foot precipices of El Capitan and Three Brothers rising as massive buttresses of the great north wall.

Swinging south along the rim for a short distance, the trail again turns westward thru the fir forests passing beautiful small meadows and wild-flower gardens and descending to Bridalveil Creek. The bridge has been destroyed but a foot-log is in place. There is fair fishing in this stream but the fish are small. Bearing west and north and climbing slightly, the trail emerges at Dewey Point (Alt. 7316), another of the promontories of the south rim. From here the Cathedral Rocks and Leaning Tower are viewed from an unusual angle, and El Capitan and Ribbon Falls dominate the opposite wall. Following the rim westward about half a mile we reach Crocker Point (Alt. 7090), from which is obtained another vast outlook. Descending 430 feet thru the forest we cross a small stream and emerge at Stanford Point (Alt. 6659), another prominent lookout on the southern ramparts. About half a mile westward one sees Old Inspiration Point, from which Yosemite was first seen by white men on March 21, 1851. Retracing our path a short distance, we turn to the right and cross Meadow Brook, which flows over Widow's Tears a quarter mile below. The vicinity is a Mecca for flower lovers. The trail continues westward, dropping 1400 feet in the next one and a half miles to Fort Monroe (Alt. 5540), an old stage relay station on the Wawona Road. Yosemite is eight miles eastward by this road.

TRAIL TRIP 18

FORT MONROE TO GLACIER POINT via POHONO TRAIL

Reverse of Trail Trip 17

(11.7 miles—5 hours. Round trip from Yosemite, 24 miles—13 hours)

The Pohono Trail trip is one of the most beautiful of Yosemite excursions. Striking eastward from Fort Monroe on the Wawona Road, it traverses a delightful wooded country in which are some of the finest wild-flower gardens of the park. From time to time it emerges at the rugged ramparts of the south wall and affords many vast panoramas. The round trip from Yosemite to Fort Monroe via Pohono Trail and return to the valley via the Short Trail is too long to be attempted by the average walker in one day. Even the trip to Glacier Point by this route is a long one, and it is suggested that the itinerary outlined in Trail Trip 17 be followed in preference. At Fort Monroe, an old stage relay station on the Wawona Road, is a fairly good auto camp. From here one may visit all the lookout points on the south rim by an easy one-day walk, or may continue to the Glacier Point Hotel (11.7 miles), returning the next day.

The Pohono Trail turns eastward from the Wawona Road at Fort Monroe, eight miles distant from Yosemite. In the long steady climb of 1400 feet in the first two miles we cross two small mountain streams and near the top of the ascent pass about a quarter mile south of Old Inspiration Point (Alt. 6603), from which Yosemite was first seen by white men on March 21, 1851. The gently sloping trail now winds beneath the firs thru most luxurious gardens of wild-flowers. Shortly we cross Meadow Brook which, a quarter mile below, plunges over Widow's Tears. Trending northward about half a mile we now emerge at Stanford Point (Alt. 6659), one of the promontories of the south rim. From here, as from all other lookouts along the top of the great south wall, is a vast panorama. Retracing our path a short distance we turn to the left, cross another small brook, and climb 350 feet in the next half mile to Crocker Point (Alt. 7090). Closely paralleling the rim for another half mile we halt at Dewey Point (Alt. 7316), the imposing apex of one of the great granite buttresses. Cathedral Rocks and the Leaning Tower are here viewed from an unusual angle. To the northward El Capitan dominates the north wall and Ribbon Falls is most advantageously seen.

A long detour to the southeast now takes us into the Bridalveil Creek Basin. The trail bridge has been destroyed, but a foot-log is in place. Fishing is fair, but the trout are small. Turning again eastward we continue thru the fir forests, passing beautiful small meadows and wild-flower gardens until we again approach the canyon rim, which we follow northward for a short distance to The Fissures. These are great cracks only a few feet wide and hundreds of feet deep. Just beyond is Taft Point (Alt. 7503). From here is a wonderfully vast view, especially of the sheer 3500-foot precipices of El Capitan and Three Brothers on the north wall. Following eastward along Profile Cliff, our trail again enters the fir and lodgepole pine forest and leads across the gently sloping plateau about one mile to the Glacier Point Road. We here turn left and an easy walk of two miles takes us to the Glacier Point Hotel, where excellent accommodations will be found. The lookout point and overhanging rock are about 200 yards northward. For trail trips from Glacier Point consult Trail Trips 16 to 23.

TRAIL TRIP 19

GLACIER POINT TO WAWONA via ALDER CREEK TRAIL

(20.5 miles—7 hours)

This is one of the oldest trails in the region and was the main thorofare to Yosemite prior to the construction of roads. The "old timers" like to tell of the famous hostelries along the route—Clark's, Westfall's, Peregoy's and McCauley's—which have long since ceased to be. The trail is not of great importance from the scenic stand-point, but offers a short-cut between its termini. Throughout most of its course it is maintained in good condition.

From Glacier Point we follow the road southwestward about two and a half miles. A short distance beyond the Pohono Trail turn-off, our trail branches to the right and enters the fir and pine forest. In the next four miles we first climb over a low spur and then descend into the basin of Bridalveil Creek, where we cross the Glacier Point Road at Peregoy Meadow. This is a good camping place and forage is abundant. Fishing in Bridalveil Creek is rather poor near the road. Bearing southward, our trail emerges in one mile at Westfall Meadow, another good campsite. Passing across an almost imperceptible divide we cross the headwaters of Alder Creek and follow along the west side of its canyon thru a beautiful forest of western yellow pine, sugar pine, fir and cedar, part of which has lately been logged. About three and a half miles below Westfall Meadow is Empire Meadows, where feed is abundant and camp sites good. Fishing is fair but the trout are small. The nearest campsite downstream is at the creek crossing three miles further. Here there is a fair camping place but forage is scarce.

From this crossing Wawona is about six and a half miles distant. Rising a short distance above the stream, the trail follows the 5500-foot level detouring around the west flank of a well-wooded mountain. About three miles from the crossing, a trail to the right descends to Alder Creek Ranger Station on the Wawona Road about one mile distant. We now continue around the mountain, gradually bearing to the southeast. The trail in the last two miles is rather rough and zigzags abruptly down to the main road, which it intersects a short distance from Wawona Bridge. The hotel, store and postoffice are just beyond.

TRAIL TRIP 20

GLACIER POINT TO OSTRANDER LAKE

(13.5 miles—5 hours)

At the very source of Bridalveil Creek and only five hours' easy walk from Glacier Point lies the picturesque Ostrander Lake, famous since the early days for its splendid fishing. The round trip from Glacier Point Hotel (twenty-seven miles) may be made in one day by good hikers, but it is far better to camp at the lake at least one night in order to be there for the best fishing. Motorists, by parking machines at the trail junction six miles southwest of Glacier Point on the Chinquapin Road, can easily make the round trip (fifteen miles) in one day.

From Glacier Point we follow the Chinquapin Road about six miles to the point where a sign indicates the Buck Camp and Ostrander Lake Trail turning to the left. This trail bears south, crossing a small tributary to Bridalveil Creek, then continues through the open lodgepole pine forest and crosses the main stream about two miles from the road. A short distance beyond, the Buck Camp Trail (Trail Trip 21) continues up the south branch of the creek. Our trail turns abruptly to the east (left) and again crosses the main stream, following up the northeast bank. In the first two miles the trail is good, but the remaining three miles are somewhat rough and steep.

Ostrander Lake (Alt. 8600) is beautifully set in a glacial amphitheater on the north side of Horse Ridge (Alt. 9600), which towers 1000 feet above. It is shallow on the north and west sides but deep under the bluffs, where are generally deep snowbanks. The lake was stocked with rainbow trout in 1892, 1893, 1899 and 1911, and with eastern brook trout in 1893 and 1899. Fishing is excellent.

Buena Vista Lake (see Trail Trip 22) is about four miles distant and may be reached by walking southeast about two miles through open forest (no trail) on the north slope of Horse Ridge and joining the Buena Vista Trail in Buena Vista Canyon. Here we may turn south up the canyon, at the head of which is Buena Vista Lake.

TRAIL TRIP 21

GLACIER POINT TO CHILNUALNA FALLS OR JOHNSON LAKE via THE BUCK CAMP TRAIL

(15.5 miles—6 hours)

The old Buck Camp Trail connects Yosemite with the favorite hunting grounds of the Chowchilla Tribe. It traverses a beautifully wooded country but offers no startling scenic effects.

From Glacier Point we follow the road southwestward about six miles to a junction, where our trail branches to the left. Bearing southward we cross a small stream and traverse a rather flat lodgepole pine forest, finally fording Bridalveil Creek. Just beyond, and at a distance of about two miles from the road, the Ostrander Lake Trail (Trail Trip 20) turns to the left. We continue southward, crossing a tributary of Bridalveil Creek and gradually mounting the slope beyond. As the trail turns southeast along the flat ridge, the wooded canyon of Alder Creek is seen to the west. Two miles further on an almost imperceptible pass is traversed. Just beyond is the source of one of the northern tributaries to Chilnualna Creek. This we follow for about two miles to the main stream, where are good camp sites and abundant forage. Fishing is fair but the trout are small. One mile further is the main Chilnualna Falls Trail. Westward one and a half miles is the Chilnualna Ranger Station, with good camp sites in the vicinity, and a half mile further is the top of Chilnualna Falls. The trail eastward leads to Grouse Lake (two miles), Crescent Lake (three and a half miles) and Johnson Lake (four and a half miles).

TRAIL TRIP 22

GLACIER POINT TO JOHNSON LAKE via THE BUENA VISTA TRAIL

(16 miles—7 hours)

This is a good new trail and is the most direct route between Glacier Point and the excellent fishing lakes of the southern part of the park. The one-way trip is an easy day's journey from Glacier Point. For those walking from Yosemite there are good camp sites and excellent fishing en route at Buena Vista and Royal Arch Lakes.

From Glacier Point we follow the main Vernal-Nevada Falls Trail about two miles. Just east of Illilouette Ridge we take the right branch and continue southeastward up the canyon of the Illilouette. About three miles takes us to another trail junction. To the west is Mono Meadow, about one and a half miles distant, and to the northeast, crossing Illilouette Creek, are the Merced Pass Trail (Trail Trip 23) and the cut-off trail to the rim of Panorama Cliff.

Our trail continues up Illilouette Creek, finally crossing a low "hog back" and turning south up Buena Vista Creek. In a glacial cirque at its head is Buena Vista Lake (Alt. 9200). The south, or upper side is backed by a rugged rock bluff from which huge boulders have fallen into the water, making an excellent place from which to fish. The lake was stocked with eastern brook trout in 1892, 1908 and 1919, and with rainbow trout in 1892. It is one of the park's best and most accessible fishing lakes. Surrounded by open parks of timber, it offers many beautiful camp sites, especially near the outlet. Forage is fair downstream from the lake but is rather scarce early in the season. Ostrander Lake is four miles northeast and can be reached by foot. There are no blazes or monuments to mark the route.

Our trail now mounts abruptly 400 feet to Buena Vista Pass (Alt. 9600). To the right about half a mile is Buena Vista Peak (Alt. 9600), and to the left and running east is Buena Vista Crest. Excellent views are obtained from the trail as it crosses the open ridge. Near the summit the granite has fractured perpendicularly, forming regular rectangular slabs.

An 800-foot descent thru the open forest in the next two miles takes us to the picturesque little Royal Arch Lake (Alt. 8800). This is a small lake, deep on the north and east sides, and shallow near the southwest margin. It is named from the arches in the steep northeast granite wall, which are similar to the Royal Arches of Yosemite Valley but on a smaller scale. The lake was well stocked with eastern brook trout in 1897 and fishing is excellent, especially in the deep water along the rocky northwest shore. There are fine camp sites here and good horse-feed.

Skirting the west margin of the lake our trail follows the small stream about one mile to the main Chilnualna Trail. Eastward is Buck Camp (two miles), Moraine Meadows (seven miles), and Fernandez Pass (eleven miles). We turn westward to Johnson Lake (Alt. 8550), about a quarter mile distant. This is a small, round, deep lake beautifully set in meadows and forest. It is bountifully stocked with eastern brook trout and rainbow trout. The locality is ideal for camping. Further westward are Crescent Lake (one mile), Grouse Lake (two and a half miles), and Chilnualna Falls (six and a half miles).

TRAIL TRIP 23

YOSEMITE OR GLACIER POINT TO MORAINE MEADOWS via THE MERCED PASS TRAIL

(From Yosemite, 22 miles—10 hours. From Glacier Point, 18 miles—7 hours)

The Merced Pass Trail has been replaced to a large extent by the more scenic and better built Buena Vista Trail, which offers a short-cut to the splendid fishing lakes in the upper basin of the South Fork of the Merced. For those whose destination is the wild country at the headwaters of the San Joaquin River, the Merced Pass Trail is still the preferable route. The upper basin of Illilouette Creek abounds in glacial phenomena and fishing is reported good.

From Yosemite we follow the Vernal and Nevada Falls Trail (Trail Trip 1) as far as the rim of Panorama Cliff just above Nevada Falls. Here we turn to the right on the Mono Meadow Trail, which bears due south four miles to the main stream of Illilouette Creek. To reach this point from Glacier Point one should follow the Vernal-Nevada Falls Trail (Trail Trip 2) for two miles, turn to the right on the Buena Vista Trail (Trail Trip 22), and after three miles more turn to the left on the Mono Meadow Trail. A short distance will take one to the banks of Illilouette Creek.

At this point—twelve miles from Yosemite and five and a half miles from Glacier Point—the Merced Pass Trail turns eastward, following for ten miles up the main stream of the Illilouette and keeping always within a short distance of its north bank. Gradually ascending to an elevation of 9295 feet, we traverse Merced Pass. To the right is the long ridge of Buena Vista Crest (Alt. 9712). A descent of 600 feet in the next two miles takes us to Moraine Meadows. This is a splendid camping region with abundant horse-feed and good fishing. Nearby will be found a summer ranger outpost. A trail to the east leads to Fernandez Pass and the headwaters of the San Joaquin; one to the southeast to Chain o' Lakes, where is most excellent fishing; and one to the west to Royal Arch, Johnson, Crescent and Grouse Lakes and Chilnualna Falls.

TRAIL TRIP 24

WAWONA ROAD TO EL PORTAL via THE SUNSET TRAIL

(4 miles—1½ hours)

This is a cut-off trail widely used by the Park Rangers in their winter patrols but seldom used by the public.

Starting from the Wawona Road one and a half miles northwest of Chinquapin, the trail runs down the ridge on the north side of Indian Creek. Swinging to the north, the trail passes just west of Lookout Point, from which is a fine view down the canyon of the Merced. Bearing to the right, it descends to Avalanche Creek, where it passes just below Cougar Falls. The trail then zigzags down the canyon wall to the midwinter ranger station and trail bridge across the Merced River, joining the El Portal Road, about three miles above El Portal.

TRAIL TRIP 25

WAWONA ROAD TO EL PORTAL via THE HENNESSY TRAIL

(10 miles—4 hours)

The Hennessy Trail is no longer used by the public since the bridge across the Merced at its lower end was washed away in 1917. Use the Sunset Trail (Trail Trip 24).

Map of Yosemite Valley And Adjacent Region

SUNSET PUBLISHING HOUSE, SAN FRANCISCO

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